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Blue Suede Shawl for Fall

10/28/2014

1 Comment

 
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Autumn air brings with it an excuse to cover up with wraps and scarves. Thankfully, because of my book I have many very wearable wraps and scarves in my wardrobe. Making these pieces got me started on a journey of creating new pieces from scratch, as well as embellishing ready-to-wear items. 

While almost half of the wraps featured in Wrapped in Embroidery work all year long, the remaining wraps are cool weather companions. They mix and match well with long sleeve T-shirts and sweaters for tops. You’ll find that corduroy pants and jeans, or even skirts and dresses can be dressed up or down with an added wrap.

The Buttoned Suede Shawl beginning on page 39 of Wrapped in Embroidery is actually a cross between a scarf and a shawl.  It is a favorite fall accessory for me. This item looks like something one of my talented knitting friends could imitate and whip together with criss crossed knitting needles and luxurious yarns. Since knitting is not a part of my creative repertoire I opted to stitch this wrap using soft faux suede cloth for my rendition.

Now for some tips for sewing with this economical, yet fashionable fabric. First, let’s talk specifically about selecting the fabric as there are many bolts of material that pass for faux suede. You may find quite a selection in the Home Décor department of your local fabric store. It is commonly found in the “big box” fabric stores and may be labeled micro-suede. I happen to love this fabric for pillows. It was part of a family room set I stitched for an article a while back in Designs in Machine Embroidery Volume 72. You can visit  www.dzgns.com to order a back issue.
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This type of suede cloth is heavy and a bit stiff but still pliable enough to cut and sew without difficulty. Although it is usually labeled dry clean only I have successfully washed this fabric. Some Home Dec fabrics are labeled this way because they may have a stain repellant coating the fabric and washing would diminish this quality. In my opinion they may also assume that a home Dec project involves a large expanse of fabric. If I you take home your super sized yardage and throw it in the washer you will probably end up with a tangled mess. Therefore, it’s just easier for the store or manufacturer to say dry clean only and take that element of chance out of your hands. If you have heard my motto “to test is best,” you’ll head this advice and wash a small amount to determine the results. The amount I normally use for pillows and such is not an issue when washing. In fact I usually toss it in the dryer too, drying until it is damp. Then I hang it up to finish the drying process. This suede is sturdy and relatively easy to sew. For larger pieces and longer seams I would definitely advise using an even feed foot. 


The next type of faux suede commonly found has a knitted, smooth backing on it. I doesn’t have any stretch and generally has a less than “real” suede look to it. It does wash and wear well and is popular for costume making. I think it is a decent choice for Home Dec and possibly even some garments but take a long hard look at this fabric and compare it to what I call fashion faux suede before you settle on this for wearable items. It does not shape well and I think it has a distinct look to it that says fake more than faux. There’s a pretty big difference between the two terms.

Last but not least there is the suede I used for my Buttoned Suede Shawl. This fashion faux suede fits the category of a “dress weight” fabric, meaning it is soft enough to sew into a dress or blouse.  Dress weight means it will drape on the body and flow over curves. This weight is soft enough to be shaped with darts or gathers. In fact the shawl featured in my book has instructions for ruching, otherwise known as gathering at the neck. I used gathered rows to shape the shawl making it versatile enough to wear multiple ways.
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Page 45 of the book details several ways to wear this wrap.

If you shop for this specific suede you will likely find it in a wide variety of colors. It has a silky, shiny, satin backing on the wrong side. I’ll warn you that it does ravel quite a bit. This fabric is labeled as washable. Since I ALWAYS pre-wash my washable fabric I would suggest serge finishing or zigzagging the raw edges prior to laundering. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did. Click Here for a link to the exact fabric I used for two of the wraps featured in the book.

No matter which suede you choose, be sure to use a press cloth and low heat when pressing this fabric. Good quality polyester sewing machine thread is essential, along with a Microtex needle size 10 to 12 for sewing seams. Visit Schmetz.com to learn more about this type needle. Topstitching is especially pretty on faux suede.  Topstitching has yet another benefit. It helps keep pressed seams flat and in their place. For topstitching I like to reach for the walking foot once again, then lengthen the stitch to at least 3.0. 

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Embroidery is a beautiful accent on the faux suede. There is something intriguing about the sheen of the embroidery thread when combined with the smooth texture of the suede. This combination is luxurious in an understated sort of way.  Next time we’ll explore options for embroidered button covers made from faux suede as well as other fabric selections. Covered buttons can be plain or embellished but you can be sure they will match your project perfectly. Stay tuned for more!
1 Comment
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    Author:

    Joanne Banko
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