What a joy it was to bring Diane & Bruce Magidson to the Sew, Tell Me LIVE show in June! It was yet another great time spent with sewing friends, talking fabric, fashion, fun accessories, etc., etc., etc. I've linked the replay below and I encourage you to watch the whole show from start to finish. You might just find yourself watching more than once!

You'll learn how SewBatik started up, where the idea for wide back quilts came from, why their batiks are so very special, what you can use them for, and MORE! I guarantee you'll be inspired by the passion, creativity, and beauty this duo brings to the sewing world with their extensive line of high quality batiks.

While Bruce heads up the design/production part of the SewBatik biz, Diane is constantly coming up with new videos, literally "playing" with the fabrics, then bringing tips, tricks, & techniques to the forefront so you can create beautiful batik projects of your own. Check out her videos on the SewBatik YouTube channel HERE.

Diane has also put together a whole page of care instructions for their unique batik fabric HERE.

I ordered a SewBatik Swatch Kit to sample the fabrics, especially the ones I don't currently have in my stash. Their website has lots of options for selecting swatches. Take a look at the ones I ordered in the above photo.

​Swatch kits solve the "will I like it, will it work?" dilemmas that often crop up while dreaming up your next project. I fell in love with the soft, silky feel of the Viscose Jersey Knit and that fabric will definitely be on my next "to order" list.

Diane shared project ideas for various batiks, and in fact their website has lots of kits available to make the decision making process easy. I've popped in pictures of a few categories below, with links attached to each photo when you click on the pic.

All these different fabrics raise questions like what needles and thread are best for each one. With Diane's help, I compiled a lst for you here:

• Thread recommendations: 40-50 weight thread, cotton for each of the woven fabrics is fine, while good quality polyester sewing thread is best for knits.
• Needles for Cotton, Rayon, Linen: Schmetz 80/12 topstitch needles for basic seams and 14/90 topstitch needles for sewing through multiple thicknesses on bags and such.
  
• Needles for 8.6 and 5 OZ canvas - Schmetz 90/14 Topstitch needles for both weights.
  
• Needles for cotton and rayon jersey knits - ​Schmetz 75/11 - 80/12 Stretch Needles.

When you visit their site be sure to scout out the bargains offered throughout. I snatched up these three remnants that I plan to put together for a blouse pattern I have in my summer/fall sewing queue.

This was such a fun show! If you were there live then you already know that, but I appreciate everyone who catches the replay too. The Let's Go Sew family of friends was the first to find out about the new SewBatik corduroy line of fabric as it was debuted on this show. I do believe batik corduroy is rare and wonderful! It's so soft and luxurious! If you have any comments about sewing with batiks I'd love to hear them. And, if you have any more questions for Diane or Bruce, feel free to post them here and I'll get the answers for you.

​Happy stitching!

Topic
Pucker Prevention Tips, Tricks, & Ideas

During a recent one hour presentation for *Sewing Machines Plus I shared some of my favorite ideas for preventing puckers in your embroidery projects. Indeed, it is a topic filled with a long list of pucker prevention possibilities!

I focused on Easy Ways to accomplish pucker prevention. ​I hope this tutorial works for all levels of embroidery enthusiasts. If yo haven't already done so, I invite you to watch the entire video segment featured at the very end of this post. As I often do after LIVE show presentations, I've provided a summary  to add to the video information by sharing an outline of some important points. I'll also include some links for you in this post.

Let's talk about he match up process, i.e., matching your design to your fabric. In simple, practical terms this means you'll want to marry light-weight designs with light-weight material and  heavier (more dense designs), with more firm material. For the sake of simplicity, we will call whatever you are stitching on "material." Here are some questions to ask before matching up design & material:

• ​Is my design and material a good, practical match as outlined above?
• Where will my design go? Think about the position of your placement.
• How will my finished project be cared for? For example: There's a distinct difference between something that will be framed to hang on a wall, a quilted item, and a t-shirt that will be frequently laundered.
• How can I maintain or closely keep the original character of my material? Remember, embroidery adds weight, even with light-weight or open designs. it may or may not matter if the base material changes depending on your desired results.
• Will I be ironing the final item? This may sound like a simple question, but it requires more analysis. Consider this short list as you think more about to iron or not to iron:
  

~Ironing can improve or diminish the final look.

~Ironing some finished projects may make the stabilizer pucker a little or a lot.

~Some projects can't or will never be ironed. Other projects will always need to be ironed.

~Perhaps ironing would flatten the piece and prove to be a negative, (think quilt blocks or puffy trapunto style designs).

Stabilizer is yet another BIG topic, and one you will hear me discuss over and over again. You can purchase the specific stabilizers shown in the video when you shop at *Sewing Machines Plus.

By now you may be realizing that we need to adopt a "big picture" approach to our embroidery projects. We tend to  think of stabilizer first, but in embroidery everything relates to everything else, so be sure to review all of the information as you decide what, when, where, and how you will use a selected stabilizer!

Questions to ask before choosing stabilizer:

• Can I get away with "less" stabilizer? Again, remember the match up process. Both under and over stabilizing can cause pucker problems.

• Will my material benefit from an aded layer of "disappearing" stabilizer? Dissapearing, meaning it will help add body, firmness, and a tight hold in the hoop during embroidery, but is removable so it goes away or virtually disappears when embroidery is complete. Possibilities include a wash-away stabilizer, a tear-away stabilizer that only has remnants left under the stitches, and a fabric stiffener such as Terial Magic or Perfect Sew. Read more about these liquid stabilizer products in this Let's Go Sew Tip Sheet HERE.
• How can I bond my stabilizer to my project? Is there a fusible or adhesive stabilizer solution for my project? Properly bonding material with an added layer of stabilizer means the layers are "stuck" together. This prevents stretching of the fabric in the hoop and keeps fabric smooth and firm. Note that bonding can be accomplished temporarily with temporary adhesive spray suitable for embroidery. It can also be accomplish with sticky stabilizers and fusible stabilizers.

• ​Is interfacing a viable option either in addition to, or in place of stabilizer? You can learn about more about how I use interfacing in this previous video segment broadcast on SMP HERE. Want a list of my favorite interfacings? Click HERE.

There are so many hoop choices these days! For many years my embroidery repertoire consisted of nothing but standard hoops. I learned to hoop efficiently and effectively with just the hoops included with my machine. However, hoops have improved and third party options abound. Watch for a future happy hooping tutorial. For now, here are a few of my best hooping tips:

• The smaller the hoop, the better the hold. Match your design size to your hoop size, choosing a hoop that matches the design size as closely as possible.
• Hoop so the material and added layer(s) are firm and smooth in the hoop. Never stretch the material in the hoop. Now, if you're stitching on a garment such as a swimsuit that will be stretched on the body, that's a different issue but that does not fall into the realm of "standard" embroidery. Drum tight is a term that gets tossed about in the embroidery world. I think that term can mean different things to different folks. If that means stretching tight then it is not good advice. Instead, strive for firm and smooth with no slack. In a past PBS It's Sew Easy TV show (2012-3 HERE), I show how to properly hoop. YOU'll find some of my same pucker proof tips in this video and a close up look at some of the things discussed here. 
• ​Consider specialty hoops such as the *Durkee Sash Frames available from SMP.

• Switching to an applique in place of a standard embroidery design will often result in less stitches, thus a lighter weight design.
• Consider deleting parts of a design to remove density. Some easy ways include skipping parts on your machine by fast forwarding, using a "No Sew" feature built in to some machines, and using embroidery software to select and delete design parts.
• Pre-pucker fabric by quilting with light weight batting or flannel as a backing. This textured fabric base is not only more stable, it can camouflage slight puckering.
• While alight ball point embroidery needle is suitable for lots of projects, woven fabrics often benefit forming a sharp needle such as a 10-12 topstitch needle or a designated sharp embroidery needle to better pierce fabric for less chance of puckering. 

Two of my own design collections are featured in the video below. For more info you can check out Wrapped in Embroidery and Just Jackets to learn more. I hope you enjoy the resources and the one hour video! Please feel free to share your thoughts and leave your comments and questions  for me. I'd love to hear from you!

Oh my! Few places have the country charm, unique opportunity to see the Amish life experience, and abundance of sewing shopping opportunities like Holmes County Ohio!

This is the third year in a row that I planned a special, albeit small and cozy, sewing retreat with with a few special friends. I wont' name them but you can see from the happy faces that we are quite a well bonded group of friends.

A few came early and a few arrived late so I'm missing three faces in this photo taken in the Courtyard of the 1847 Millersburg Hotel.

The timing coordinates with my birthday and they always find a way to make it a memorable affair that keeps me glowing for many days afterwards.

A Mexican fiesta across from the hotel was full of joy and laughter.

But the icing on the cake "literally" cam afterwards with a custom baked orange cake made by a master baker named Kim and delivered all the way from Virginia Beach by my dear friends June, Debbie, & Don!

In between everyone diving into their projects, eating, sleeping, and sharing the love of sewing, we shopped at the many incredibly special sewing establishments in the area. I have compiled quite a list HERE if you're interested in traveling around the area but I'll highlight a few stops during our 2025 excursions in this post.

Karen, the owner of The Plaid Sheep gave my friends a private tour of her store explaining all the fabulous creative possibilities with her unique product line. She coordinates quite a few retreats herself and I'm told they are great fun.

All those little drawers hold treasured pre-cut appliques.

Towels, toweling, and patterns to decorate them are abundant in this shop.

A nice selection of quilt fabric and a bunch of great patterns fill the store and many of them are Karne's very own originals.

Buckeyes go crazy over this one!

The bolts of wool for both applique and rug hooking are part of the line this store carries that is hard to find elsewhere.

After some conversation with Karen I discovered I have some hand-dyed wool strips from her original store in downtown Berlin. Oh how we love to hang on to pretty fabric bundles! I may just hang them on my wall at this point and admire them the way they are. So who says you "have" to use fabric to enjoy it?!? Any one else considering just putting some of your stash on display to enjoy it's beauty? 

This sign found at Zincks Fabric Outlet says it all! This warehouse style store is huge! You never know what treasures you might find here. One find for me was a full bolt of good quality low priced  flannel I can use as substitute for quilting batting when I want a less fluffy project. I also love it as a backing for unusual accents on some garments like this project HERE.

Visiting with my friend and owner of Somewhere Sewing​ is always a delight! As you drive up the driveway past their house and their stand alone big building set up for events, you have to take notice of the surroundings. Simply beautiful!

A trip to Holmes County just to visit Somewhere Sewing is well worth the trip! You'll find over 10,000 bolts of fabric, notions, embroidery designs, and a stellar Brother/Babylock dealership here.  

Met some delightful folks at Chestnut Ridge Sewing, the Bernina dealership just outside of Berlin. Don't judge a book by it's cover! I've driven by this shop before but it is way bigger and better once you get past the front door!

I think my friends were as surprised and delighted as I was.

Such beautifully displayed machines and the fabric and notion selection was really something to see! I never got chance to take a photo of their classroom but it was fuly stocked with gorgeous machines in a state of the art facility.

Seeing class samples is always interesting and their newsletter is chock full of happenings to satisfy your sewing soul!!!

​There's so much to see in Holmes County Ohio and exploring with sewing friends make the journey "Sew" enjoyable!

Have you been on a similar excursion or do you know of an area where sewing is part of the destination location? I'd love to hear about it in the comments!

Interested in making the most of your serger? If the answer is yes, you're in the right place! Starting with Which Stitch - How, When, Where, & How, I've been presenting a series exploring a variety of serger stitches. So far, each of these videos  have been LIVE shows with Yours Truly as a guest host on the Sewing Machines Plus Channel. If you missed any of these shows you'll find links at the end of this post.

My last show was titled More Two-Thread Techniques, focusing on flatlocking. You can watch a replay of that video HERE.

Featured machine is the Brother Airflow 3000, available from Brother dealers such as *Sewing Machines Plus.

In this video you'll see me share a serger sample sheet I created to help you keep track of your own serger sample making adventures. I'm offering this as a bonus for you at the end of this post, along with a tip sheet for flatlocking. Watch the video and you'll see set-up and steps for flatlocking with the following techniques, tips, & tricks highlighted:

• Begin with machine set-up for 2-thread stitching using manual as a guide.
• What a balanced 2-thread stitch looks like on the upper and lower side.
• What an "unbalanced" 2-thread stitch looks like and some corrections to re-balance.
• Using the blindhem foot and/or adding a guideline to machine for easier flatlock stitching.
• Flatlock as a "bridging" stitch on two pieces placed with edges meeting together.
• Flatlock on a fabric fold.
• Flatlock lace to satin.
• Flatlock for blindhem on knit.

Note: All samples below feature *MaxiLock Serger Thread, with red in the left needle and navy in the lower looper.

While these settings were ideal for the overcast, I ended up making a few adjustments when I stitched a few more flatlocking samples. Keep in mind that fabric is always a variable and various layers of fabric can also  mean you need to adjust tensions slightly. For flatlocking my final needle setting was 1.0 and my lower looper was 5.5.

Flatlock on a fabric fold is a nice decorative accent. Place fabric with Wrong Sides together to feature loops on the Top Side. Place fabric with Right Sides together to feature ladders on the Top Side. Below you'll see what the topside and then the bottom side looks like, with fabric stitched wrong sides together. Notice that the needle thread is red and the lower looper thread is navy.

This last but not least sample shows what a flatlock looks like used for a blindhem on t-shirt knit. Obviously, I used contrast thread in this example. it is important to know that this type of stitch can never be as "invisible" as hand hemming or a blind hem on a sewing machine.

For more comparisons of serger versus sewing machine stitches take a look at ISE show 2101-1 titled Serge It or Sew It HERE.

Want more serger resources? Stay tuned to letsgosew.com and be sure to join the email list for updates! Extra tips, tricks, & techniques coming your way on a regular basis.

For now, check out the links below for more serger information to help you make the most of your machine:

• FREE downloadable Basic Serger Stitches Tip Sheet HERE.
• FREE downloadable 2-Thread Serger Techniques  TipSheet Part One HERE.
• FREE downloadable Serger Sample Reference Sheet HERE.
• Watch the 1st video in the Serger Series HERE.
• Watch the 2nd video in the Serger Series HERE.
• Watch the 3rd video in the Serger Series HERE. 

Note: All the above videos include comments plus Q&A from viewers. I'm happy to read your comments and answer your questions below. Thanks for reading and enjoy the tips, tricks, & techniques!

I recently finished stitching up these "use them for whatever" small drawstring bags. They are meant to be gifts for two special people at a local Vet clinic who compassionately cared for us as we said goodbye to our precious little Miss Trixie cat just a few weeks ago. They helped us through a very difficult time with great deal of kindness and I wanted them to know how much I appreciated all they did to help. 

I included a custom made card and a book mark for the caring Doctor and the kind veterinary assistant. I've already told the story of how Trixie came into our lives, the joy she brought us for sixteen years, and the unfortunate day we had to say goodbye HERE in another post.

Yes, I still shed tears and miss her terribly, but I wanted this post to highlight the helpful way sewing can help us work though heartache. I believe keeping our hands busy making things of beauty has a healing effect.

I also know that one way to combat being absorbed by our own feelings is to do something for others. Have you found yourself feeling comforted by finding a way to focus on someone else? Mind you, I'm not saying you should stuff your feelings, ignore them, or neglect taking care of yourself by prioritizing others. After all, if you're cup is empty you having nothing left to give to others. We all need each other! But I think filling your own cup gives you ample extra to dish out to others.

The opportunity to spread joy and happiness to others via a hand-crafted gift is really something unique for those of us who sew. Agree?!? While we all appreciate a store bought gift, receiving and giving something made with TLC is truly special! In the hope of inspiring you, let me tell you more about the little gift set I put together.

Finding the right fabric for the drawstring bags was step one. Would you believe this adorable kitty print scrap was buried in my stash. I didn't even remember having it. I followed a basic method for making a self-lined pouch that I developed for a blog post previously published HERE. Hoping it could be used for something like sunglasses or treasures and trinkets, I enlarged the size, making it a bit wider and a bit taller.

For the drawstring, I found some 100% silk ribbon I had been hoarding and after comparing it to the poly ribbon I also had on hand I said to myself "what am I saving this for?" Then I put the poly away and cut into the silk.

In similar fashion, I found scraps of real Ultrasuede I hung onto for years and decided it would be perfect for the name patches. Even though my machine itself has a multitude of fonts, embroidery software is usually my go to selection for lettering. I've found that I have far more options for sizes and software fonts have good underlay stitches that help them sew out well on all manner of fabrics.

For the name patches I used the Cursive font from my *DiME Word Art In Stitches program. I love the way the software gives me a pop up window telling me both how small and how large I can successfully stitch individual font styles. I chose this one specifically, not just because it was pretty but because it's all connected and looks like real hand writing. It came out beautiful on the patches.

The greeting card features a really special font from yet another software program I have called BES Blue. It's a product that comes from Brother but saves to all common home formats so it's useful for everyone. The paw print font is something I've never seen anywhere else. By the way, over the years I developed my own way to make embroidered greeting cards. 

Last but not least, I included a book mark in the set. In the above picture you see the back side of the book marks. Since this is a free standing lace type of design it was important to wind a matching bobbin for each color change. I also found more suede scraps that would look good on both sides. This is a Dakota Collectables Lace Themed Bookmarks collection #970345. They're fun and easy to make and there's something for everyone in this collection. The collection includes instructions for this type of stitch out.

Making this set gave me something constructive to focus on and imagining the smiles on the faces of the gift recipients helped me to smile as well! When's the last time you created something in your sewing space and found it to be soothing to your soul? Let me know. I'd love to hear about it in the comments below :-)

Webster's definition of Upcycle: To recycle (something) in such a way that the resulting product is of a higher value than the original item: to create an object of greater value from (a discarded object of lesser value).

I might add a few addtional descriptive words: REpurpose, REnew, REuse, REvamp, REcreate, REdesign, REvive, REdo, REjuvenate!!! Note that I took liberty with capitalizing RE simply for emphasis!

Actually, these terms all fall under the umbrella of sustainability, which to me means the simple idea of keeping things that may be destined for the landfill, to instead see new life in a new way by being repurposed. The way I see it, repurposing means using materials as a piece or part of a creative endeavor to make something new from something not so new, and to use items others see as useless or worse yet, trash!

Recently, I went on a road trip with my friends (Kim, Deb & Kathy), to a place called the UpCycle Parts shop in Cleveland. You can learn more about this non-profit organization at upcyclepartsshop.org.

If I had my way I  would wish a place like this existed within reach of all creatives! ​Perhaps there's something similar in your area. ​

It was a virtual candy land for creatives! Their mission was clearly stated and something to take to heart and remember! It was obvious that staff members had a passion for the work they're involved in.

Our donations were weighed and then self sorted in the back stock room. We asked why the scale was key and told they keep track of the "tonage" of items that are re-sold rather than trashed. Alexis guided us into placing our donations into bins that were categorized for easy sorting. I thought that was a super clever way to lessen the workload for staff members.

Upstairs in the shop you could find everything from sewing notions, to fabric, leather, yarn, jewelry supplies, art supplies, and crafting supplies for all ages! Prices were far less than what you would find in a retail establishment selling new goods.

They had another whole side of the store dedicated to holding classes and maker events in what's known as the Craft Cafe.

We had a great time donating, then browsing and buying new "used" treasures. The best part was meeting staff members like Sharon. Everyone there is a fellow maker and creator who loves the upcycle concept and loves creating themselves!

A post for pet parents who understand the comfort and joy of sharing their sewing space with their animal friends.

The next day was full of "getting to know you, getting to love you" time for the three of us. I'll never forget how tiny she was!

She loved being close by, oblivious to my deadlines and need for concentration.

We are missing her now and the times I had to shoo her off of sleeping on my fabric seem quite inconsequential.

​We had our last hug as I held her close before saying goodbye. I'm forever thankful for Dr. Emily, vet assistant Marrelle, and Sarah at the reception desk. They were all so very kind and compassionate.

I started the show with some images of scarves from my book titled Wrapped in Embroidery. Pashminas featured in the book are the real "McCoy" silk and or wool pashminas from thepashminastore.com. They're luxurious but a bit pricey. Take a look at embroidered and embellished Pashmina scarves from the book below:

You can see how this scarf was made when you watch my video previously seen on the  PBS It's Sew Easy TV show 1703-1 HERE, with instructions HERE.

I've got a full set of written instructions in PDF form for you to download so you can make your own chic triangle scarf. I suggest you download a copy and use it along with the video for reference. CLICK HERE to download.

I hope you'll enjoy making one for yourself or one to give as a gift. As always, I'd love to hear your thougths and read your comments!

Oh my! There are so many ways to enhance your sewing & embroidery projects with embellishment techniques. In this three part series I'd like to share three of my favorite ways to UPSCALE your Sewing & Embroidery Projects. 

Candle-wicking stitches are meant to mimic hand worked stitches that were done with thick cotton thread. These "knotted" stitches had a raised look. See if your machine manual or manufacturer highlights these type of stitches to see if they are available for your particular brand or machine model.

​In the Brother world of sewing machines, candle-wicking stitches are located in the menu with the character/decorative stitches on the sewing side of the machine. You'll also find candle-wicking stitches featured in embroidery designs and embroidery software. And, if you have My Design Center decorative stitch options, you can create your own candle-wicking embroidery designs in minutes! Watch for a video tutorial on that coming very soon!!!

In the Brother world of presser feet there is a special presser foot for gliding over these raised stitches. SA 193 is aptly called the Candle-wicking Foot. I's a snap on foot that fits many machines.

The key thing that makes this type of foot preferred over a standard decorative stitch foot is the wide opening on the top side and deep channel on the underside of the foot.

CLICK HERE for a short video on the use of this foot.

Experiment with decorating all manner of projects with these beautiful bold stitches! Below I used them as an accent on a pillow top. You'll see that I tied together my embroidery design color scheme with a bit of decorative stitching, adding an upscale look with very little effort. Note that the heart shaped rose design was created by manipulating designs from my JUST JACKETS embroidery design collection.

Back again in the Brother world, if you have the My Custom Stitch option on your machine you can create a delicate, tiny candle-wicking stitch by following the coordinates shown below:

Here's what a simple star pattern looks like when stitched with this special My Custom Stitch stitch! 

You'll find a complete tutorial for making this My Custom Stitch stitch when you CLICK HERE for an archived post I wrote for the Brother Stitching Sewcial site.

Last but not least, take a look at these dresses formerly featured on it's Sew Easy TV.

You can watch the video and see more details when you CLICK HERE.

I hope you enjoyed Part One. Have you used candle-wicking stitches? I'd love to read your thoughts and comments!

The inspiration for this LIVE show revolved around the fist item I ever stitched together and the first garment I ever embroidered. Looking at both of them, I took a trip back in time. I thought about how I managed to make them and how I would make improvements if making them as my current self, after sewing now for many decades and embroidering for over 30 years.

Here is the apron I made in junior high as my first project assignment:

Some of the topstitching wavers a bit, but I was actually surprised at how even it looked. Maybe my teacher gave me some good tips, and maybe I was just fortunate the first time around. I do believe I was "born to sew." Believing my ability to sew and create is a gift from God, THE Creator, sewing came very naturally to me. However, I readily admit that topstitching is often a challenge. This show highlights some tips for improving the accuracy and quality of your topstitching.

Machine embroidery came much later in my sewing journey. I purchased the first home sewing and embroidery combo machine on the market in the early 90's. Wow! What a stir it created in the sewing world of that date and time. I think sewing was withering a bit in that era and the ability to embellish all manner of creations with superb machine embroidery set the sewing world on fire. Other than a few color pictures incuded with the manual, in the early days there was virtually no inspirational and educational materials produced to compliment the machine and help with the "how tos." Being an enthusiastic garment maker, I wanted to adorn a favorite vest pattern with a paisley motif on my checked fabric. Here you see the results:

At that time placement was still a mystery and hoops were small. Being a highly visual person as most stitchers are, I needed a way to "picture" the designs on my vest pieces as they were cut but not yet sewn together.

Necessity was the mother of invention so I stitched out a sample of the design on scrap fabric, then proceeded to trace over it onto clear plastic, the kind made for overhead projectors. Using that as my "template, I was able to get a pretty good idea of where I wanted to place my designs. If I had it to do all over again I would have done some flipping of the designs but I don't think mirror imaging was even an option at that point. Being my first machine embroidered embellished garment I wore it with joy for quite some time. Indeed, today printable templates make the placement perfect regardless of the model machine you have, albeit many models have bells and whistles to assist with this task. I still love using templates to audition my designs before I hoop and use them for perfect placement along with other helpful tools.

I hope you'll watch the replay of the LIVE show if you haven't seen it yet. You can watch the entire video below:

As promised in the video, I want to share some resources to add to the show, answer some questions asked during the show, and also give you more help for both topstitching and for using templates. Here goes!

Resources for Topstitching Tips

Pick the right needle was tip #1. CLICK HERE to check out the following blog post with my featured guest Rhonda Pierce, spokesperson for Schmetz Needles of North America. ​CLICK HERE for a comprehensive, downloadable needle guide.

Choose a foot for the task was tip #2. There are many feet that function as a best friend for topstitching. I wrote a post with more info about Bi-Level feet HERE. We also talked about walking feet and adding attachments. CLICK HERE for lots more on this topic.

An Edge Joining foot or Stitch in the Ditch foot really help for accurate topstitching, especially when you take advantage of the ability to shift your needle from right to left when using a straight stitch. You might also have the option to add a Stitch in the Ditch foot to your brand of walking foot.

The Adjustable Blind Hem foot is another favorite for topstitching due to the ability to move the onboard edge guide and have it flow right along the edge as you stitch.

In the video you also heard me sing the praises of the Straight Stitch Foot and coordinating plate if available.

Here are some direct links to projects featuring the aforementioned feet:

Stitch in the Ditch (Note: In this post you'll also see how I use gridlines to keep multiple rows of stitching evenly spaced.)

Edge Joining (I used this foot to add ribbon to a purchased pashmina.)

Adjustable Blind Hem foot (Topstitching on a tote proves this foot is NOT just for blind hems.)

Tip #3 highlighted the benefits of a Straight Stitch Foot and Plate. CLICK HERE to learn more about why this foot is so useful, especially for fine fabrics.)

I mentioned the fact that Angela Wolf likes to use a triple straight stitch for topstitching on jeans. She's famous for her jeans patterns and even has a course to go along with the pattern. I've enjoyed this course myself you and yo may enjoy it too! *CLICK HERE for more info.

Now for the Topic of Templates!

Using Dime Print & Stick Target Paper templates is my “go to” method for design placement. Depending on your machine capabilities, you may have other options for aligning designs. I usually use the Print & Stick paper for templates I'll use more than once. You can print on ordinary computer paper too but you'll have to tape it in place.

Software for printing templates - Embroidery Tool Shed is a free program from my friends at Dime. It's sew easy to print a template using Embroidery Tool Shed. Follow the steps below:

1. Open your design in Embroidery Tool Shed Software.
2. In the File Menu, select "print"
3. In Print Preview, you can select "Settings" and mark the checkboxes next to: realistic, crosshairs, actual size, stitches.
4. Choose the print button when you're ready. 

While I do have many options available technology wise, I use templates to see each design in full size and create artistic layouts of embroidery designs for nearly all of my projects. Feel free to use templates in combination with “special tools” built in to your machine. Templates allow for auditioning designs with a realistic preview, not matter you machine's capabilities. Audtion designs on a table or on a dress form if you're making a garment. Templates are the perfect way to preview designs before taking your first stitch.

I've written about and talked about tmeplates in a variety of venues. Here are some resources for you to check out:

My Just Jackets Design Collection includes a detailed tutorial for perfect placement with templates.

This blouse project shows templates with the added use of the snowman marker.

In this video excerpt for SMP I showed steps for hooping using a template for alignment.

I hope this extra information helps you experience more happy sewing time in your sewing space. Please feel free to leave your comments and any other questions you may have for me. I'm happy to help!

Have you started to sort? In my Step One blog post I presented my streamlined method for clearing your creative clutter by creating a simple system and sorting everything you have to deal with into categories and containers. You can read Step One HERE.

Step Two is sorting & dealing with the DELETE container. 
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By way of review, You'll need containers for three main categories: KEEP, DELETE, DECIDE LATER & DITCH.

I talked about three additional subcategories for Delete items, Give Away, Sell, & Re-cycle. You'll find resources for this category at the end of this post. In the comments section I would also love to hear your suggestions for everything you need to delete. At this point, I'm prioritizing the DELETE items.

In part one I suggested a dedicated space to sort and store as you go along. If you have the time, energy and inclination to do all your sorting at once, great! I have too many weekly deadlines and commitments to shut down my sewing space for any length of time so it's a start and stop process for me. I promise to keep sharing progress along with tips for making your sewing space a happy place. We may or may not be sorting at the same pace but rest assured, I'll continue to share ideas for storage and organization.  

For now, let's explore the process of sorting a little further. Items in the KEEP and DECIDE LATER containers will need a future home. Therefore, as you are compiling these items, you'll want to consider where and how you'll store them.

If you're fortunate enough to have a space where all your creative possessions, materials, tools, & supplies can be compiled in one place you are fortunate indeed! Many of us, me included, will have to split things up, with a designated main creative space, and a dedicated storage area for organizing whatever else you have.  My main space is a spare bedroom. It is by no means large, but I'm maximizing the use of the closet with a closet organizer and a few other items to make the most of the space. Basement storage will be for additional inventory and most of my fabric stash. I also have tons of samples from past projects and various pieces I use for teaching materials that I must keep. Trust me, the life of a sewing educator is one of accumulation! I am paring down this "keep" category too, being realistic about what I may need for the future. Unless you are in the same boat as me you won't have to deal with this category.

Back to sorting . . . As you sort, you simply must consider the future home for everything you're desiring to keep. You have to ask yourself, where will it go and will it fit? This is widely known as "the container concept" or "boundary method." Summarized like this, if it does't fit, you must get rid of it, OR get rid of something else so there is room for it to fit.

No judgement here, but many of us have more than we can ever use so DELETE will have to be a part of the process. I promise the philosophical and psychological aspect of this series will be minimal as my main goal is just to get it done. However, unless you're able to increase your available space, you will likely have to take on the mantra "keep the best and get rid of the rest." 

Now, what to do with whatever you need to delete, defined in the first post as the following: Delete: Give away or get rid of by re-cycling or re-selling. 

Let's start with possibilities for re-selling items. A popular Facebook group run by Jaime Ruckle is called SewItsForSale. It's a private group you'll need to join for access. Since it's full of sewing enthusiasts you are reaching what's called a target market. I encourage you to check it out HERE. A quick search for Selling Sewing Supplies on Facebook brought up several more options. Do a search for yourself and see what you find.

A new to me commission based resource for selling sewing and craft items is called DESTASHIFY. You can read their FAQ's HERE. I've heard good reports on this site and I just set up an account to sell off some really good stuff. Note that you can also Donate items  and the process looks pretty easy. Watch for an update in future posts.

By the way, both SewItsForSale and Destashify can be a resource for purchasing items as well. I know!!! This is supposed to be all about decluttering but hey, you know what they say . . .  De-stash to re-stash LOL!

Facebook marketplace is another re-sale option. Then there's Next Door, a local neighborhood re-selling marketplace. Good old ebay has been around for a while and may be another good option for you. When it comes to selling on ebay I would first search for similar items that have sold in the past. This will give you an idea of whether or not your item has a good chance for re-sale. 

Last, but not least, if you have a group of like minded de-cluttering sewing friends, you may want to consider putting together your own Fabric & More Flea market. Find a place where your can invite others to set up and rent tables for a reasonable fee, establish some rules, set a date, and advertise to everyone you can think of, including local quilt and sewing guilds. Creative types always love a bargain so if it is promoted properly you could have some fun and sell some stuff too! I'm planning one of my own with a friend this year so I'll let you know how it all goes.

Admitedly, re-selling can be a hassle and takes time, effort, and the ability to pack and ship. Selling has it's place, but I really love the idea of gifting and lean more towards the idea of giving away as much as possible. The obvious first choice is friends who will appreciate your no longer needed items. After that, look to worthy places/charities that will take what you have and earn needed funds for operation or sell for low cost to creatives looking for bargains. It gives me great joy giving joy to someone else, albeit a stranger. If you have a sewing machine to dispose of, see if your local dealer may re-distribute machines to those in need. The Sewing Machine Project is a reputable organization, collecting both sewing machines and supplies. Learn more about their work HERE.

Churches, schools, senior centers, services for disabled and challenged youth are possible places to contact to see if they take donations. Call or visit local thrift stores to see if they can use your unwanted items. I have more than one in my local area that benefits good causes and also serves my local communities with goods at reasonable prices.

Last but not least, a simple internet search of where to donate arts & crafts supplies brought me to a full page of donation locations in my locality. Here is a link to an example at Cuyahoga Recycles: bit.ly/3VEOLQT 

You may find options with a search of your community's solid waste management or re-cycle facilities. It takes a little effort but asking and searching for donation locations will yield results and you may find some that will pick up instead of having to drop off.

Fabric that is only suitable for recycling can go to places specifically suited to collect textiles. My local Goodwill takes bags of fabric scraps for recycling. I know some folks who collect scraps and use them for stuffing pet beds for local pet shelters.

Click Here to read an interesting article from online tech magazine Wired.com, on the whole subject of selling, donating, and re-cycling.
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Whew! Long post with lots to consider. Deleting is hard but just remember, making more space for "keepers" and streamlining your sewing space will pay off with more room for your creativity to flow and flourish! Be sure to celebrate your progress!

Please share your own tips and ideas in the comments below!

Should I call this the creative person's guide to clearing crafting clutter? Or, organizing ideas for sewing and crafting enthusiasts who want to clean less and create more? Well, I could probably think of a half dozen titles to pain the picture. Essentially, this series of posts is all about sorting, storing, and saving your "stuff" to make your creative space a happier place!

If this idea appeals to you read on!

First and foremost, time for true confession. The last time my own sewing space was really neat, nice, and streamlined was quite some time ago. I'm glad I kept the above photo, as it will serve as inspiration for the journey ahead.

Next disclosure, I am not naturally organized when it comes to managing material possessions. Writing, designing, teaching, managing deadlines . . . it's safe to say my organizational skills shine in those venues, but all at the expense of struggling to keep my workspace under control both during and after a project deadline.

Although I am not naturally organized, I am resourceful, creative, and determined! Armed with those positive thoughts, it's time for a sewing space overhaul. 

So, how to get organized? Ahh yes, living in the information age, "self help" is only a click away. Books, videos, & groups abound with systems for achieving clutter control and organizational utopia. I've read books by Marie Kondo, Dana K. White, Cassandra Aarssen, Peter Walsh, and others in the realm of decluttering experts. I have picked up a few tips and ideas, but in the end I haven't found anyone who is a true fabric fanatic, maker, creator, and crafter that understands the mindset of those of us who are passionate and admittedly obsessive about our hobby. And, in all my research, I certainly don't know any specific material (no pun intended) written for those of us who create as both a vocation and avocation.

Many decluttering experts tout the benefits of minimalism. I don't want to be a minimilist! I just want to streamline my valuable materials and tools, purge and pare down, and make it easier to walk into my designated space and feel free to create with joy! Oh, and I would also like to know where my favorite scissors are, that pattern I bought three months ago, the spool of black bobbin thread I need right now, etc., etc., etc.

Most of what I read and researched depressed me or overwhelmed me. I came away with the distinct belief that I needed a simplified system that would work without making me feel guilty for. I'm writing this series of blog posts because I think some of you are kindred spirits and if this works for me it may work for you too. If all is well in your sewing world, neat, pretty, and perfectly organized, then get back to your neat and pretty space and stop reading! You don't need this! If however, you need some help in the area of streamlining your sewing space, then stick with me.
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The streamlining, sorting, storing, and saving your "stuff" to make your creative space a happier place begins now! I invite you to join me!

After a lot of thought, I came up with four distinct categories that everything I own can fit into as I sort through stuff. Here they are:

Keep: Simple enough, these are things that I won't and don't want to part with. They will need to eventually be put away in a place that is accessible. Of course, they'll need to be organized but more about that later.

Delete: Give away or get rid of by re-cycling or re-selling. Again, I'll share more ideas for both these options as the blog posts progress.

Decide Later: Decision fatigue and emotional attachment is the #1 enemy you'll face in this process. Decide later means you don't know right now. Give yourself the gift of deciding later, once you've made some real and tangible progress.
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Ditch: Easy peasy, this is obvious trash for the trash bag. 

The goal with streamlining is to simplify, so you'll so some micro sorting as you go along. As you encounter stray spools of thread, patterns, fat quarters, scissors, notions, and anything else you can fit into a sub category and small package, put them in zipper bags and label them. If you already have a place where they should live permanently then go ahead and take them there. 

Print three more subcategories for your Delete container:

• Give Away
• Sell
• Re-Cycle

Okay! That's a great start! The next post will take you further into this journey. Stay tuned!

Note that the opinions expressed are my own. I have gleaned some ideas for various sources. I'll reference them as I go along so you can look them up if you so desire.

I'd love to read your comments! Share your struggles and challenges. Or, if you're already in good shape, feel free to share your tips and success stories for streamlining and organizing with your fellow stitching friends. 

In my previous blog HERE, I showed samples of custom quilting on the embroidery side of your machine. In this post, you'll see some options for using your sewing machine. These techniques for quilting on the sewing side of your machine will work for almost everyone!

Both blog posts were created as a follow-up to my recent Tea & Tutorials show featuring  Annie Unrein from byannie.com. The replay is HERE on YouTube.

Each of the samples shown here consist of a quilt sandwich made with cotton fabric on the top and bottom and byAnnie Soft & Stable in place of batting.

In this sample I decided to use Wonderfil 12 wt. varigated Accent thread, available HERE. Since the thread is thicker than standard thread, a size 14 topstitch needle is recommended. 

Here is my common process for channel quilting: I start by drawing an X across my fabric from corner to corner. Then, I stitch each line of stitching with a walking foot. For all remaining rows I use a quilt guide with the walking foot to stitch evenly spaced rows. You'll find a YouTube video showing this process HERE.

Using a twin needle gives you two rows of stitching on the top. You'll find more information for using twin needles on your machine, including threading tips  in this blog post HERE.

I love using the serpentine stitch with a twin needle. The resulting pattern creates a scalloped effect. Below is an example of what a serpentine stitch looks like in the menu of a machine. It's a very common stitch. Check your machine for a stitch that matches the image. It's simply a wavy undulating straight stitch.

It's important to know that the twin needle has to "share" the bobbin thread. Below you'll see the bottom side where the bobbin thread floats between the two needles forming somewhat of a zig zaggy look. I only use this technique when the backside will not show, or is unimportant for the finished project.

Look at the top side of this sample and you'll see beautiful rows of decorative stitches combined with straight line quilting. I'm always looking for ways to use the beautiful decorative stitches available on modern machines. Many of us have so many of them built right in to the machine!

​I know lots of quilters like to feature decorative stitches in their projects too. However, decorative stitches and quilt layers don't always play nicely together. The forward, backward, and sideways nature of decorative stitches can be problematic on thicker layers, causing distortion of the patterns. What's the solution? Well, if you take a look at the next photo, you see that only my straight stitching goes through the entire quilt sandwich. Take a look at the bottom side of my sample below:

Decorative stitches are basically baby embroidery designs and cotton quilt fabric needs to be well stabilized for decorative stitches to form properly. Here's the solution and the process I used to "quilt" with decorative stitches:

​I started by stabilizing my top fabric with crisp tear-way on the back, sewed the decorative stitches on just the top fabric, removed the excess stabilizer, then added the backing and foam layers for my quilt sandwich. Finally, I used straight stitches and my walking foot to add quilting between the rows of decorative stitches.

This technique provides the best of both worlds and beautiful results!

I hope you enjoyed this blog post and the featuring custom quilting using byAnnie Soft & Stable in place of batting. You'll find the post titled Custom Quilting wtih Your Embroidery Machine HERE. Leave your comments below and let me know if you have plans to try these techniques and some of your own!

​Annie Unrein of byannie.com was a recent guest on my show titled Tea & Tutorials. ​

This once-a-month live show is loosely based on the idea of sipping some tea (or your beverage of choice), while learning some new sewing, embroidery, quilting, or crafting techniques.

On the show broadcast live on January 26, 2024, Annie showed how to make her Time for Tea cozy using her pattern of the same name. Since this cozy can be made so many ways by embellishing the fabric before cutting, I wanted to share some ideas for custom quilting fabric on both the embroidery and sewing side of the machine. There’s something for everyone here, no matter your machine make or model. However, as a Brother Ambassador, I use their products and machines, so you’ll see specifics from my personal toolbox of sewing machines and accessories.

​CLICK HERE to watch the video replay for the the whole show. I came up with six ways to custom quilt fabric, three with embroidery and three with simple sewing methods. This Part One post covers three methods with embroidery. My follow up post will cover three methods for sewing options.

Note: Each of the samples shown here consist of a quilt sandwich made with cotton fabric on the top and bottom and byAnnie Soft & Stable in place of batting.

Embroidered Quilting Option #1: Use the Stamp feature along with My Design Center to quilt around an embroidery motif.

My Design Center is design creation software built-in to the machine. You may have a machine that class this feature by another name. As a Brother ambassador, I’m showing sample steps on a Brother Luminaire 3. If you have icon on your machine that matches the one below, then you do have the stamp feature. 

Many might be familiar with the technique called end-to-end quilting, edge-to-edge quilting or E2E for short. If you have an embroidery machine you can do this technique using a hoop size from 4” X 4” and up! I’ll just explain it briefly here but watch for more on this topic in the future. 

You'll find an excellent video about edge to edge quilting by my friend Eileen Roche from Designs in Machine Embroidery HERE.

Embroidery designs specifically made for edge-to-edge quilting have a beginning and ending point designed to match up when you do continuous embroidery by moving the hoop and stitching one section at a time. By properly linking the designs together, the resulting quilted piece looks like it was stitched either by an extremely proficient free motion stitcher,  or done with a long arm with automated stitching. If neither of those categories fit you and you have an embroidery machine, a bit of patience and a willingness to learn a new technique, then you’ll find E2E quilting on your embroidery machine a fabulous way to get a similar look.

Just a note, one difference you’ll find when quilting E2E in a hoop is the fact that the back side shows more knots due to the fact that the machine must tie off at the beginning and end of the design. Many folks are only interested in the view from the top and aren’t concerned with the backside.

However, if you want your bottom to look neater you can turn off your jump thread cutting feature and start by advancing the design to the first stitch, sending the needle down and up and pulling on the top thread tail so the bobbin thread is yanked to the topside. At this point, you can tie the threads manually or with your machine auto tie, tape threads out of the way until the design is finished, and then feed them between your fabric layer to bury then when design is complete. You can also leave thread tails at the end of your design so those can be anchored and buried as well.

E2E Quilting is a hot topic these days and a great way to quilt small, medium, and even some larger quilt projects.

I love a stipple design that is filled in completely without any connecting point because they are easy to match up, simply stitch one block next to another, both horizontally and vertically and you won't notice when one block begins and another one ends. Designs by JuJu as well as other embroidery design companies sell stipple fill embroidery designs in a variety of sizes.

I hope you enjoyed exploring a few ways to add custom quilting on the embroidery side of your machine! Leave any comments or questions you have for me below.

Are you ready to learn more about stitching a t-shirt with a serger? Recently, I demonstrated the fast, flat method for serging a T-shirt on the Sewing Machines Plus Sew Fest GRAND FINALE Friday show. You can CLICK HERE to watch my one hour long serger segment on the SMP YouTube channel.

Using the Brother Airflow 3000 serger, I stitched the shirt from start to finish in less than one hour! You can too, if you're familiar with the basics on your own serger model and follow my instructions.

I stitched the hem of the sleeves and the bottom using a blind hem foot for the serger and a stitch called a flatlock stitch. Take a look at the serger blind hem foot below. If this was not included with your machine, chances are you can purchase one as an optional accessory.

Here's what it should look like on the bottom side:

The "V" shaped stitch you see is formed by the loose needle thread. This is essential for allowing the stitch to be pulled flat. I used contrasting thread so you could readily see what it looks like but of course you would want to match your fabric as close as possible. Here is what the finished hem looks like on the outside of the T-Shirt:

And here is what it looks like on the wrong side:

You can follow all the steps for constructing the T-Shirt found in the tutorial HERE.

During the show I showed how my hem was stabilized prior to stitching with a strip of fusible interfacing. I cut one inch wide strips of tricot knit type interfacing, cutting them along the "stretchiest" grain of the interfacing.

Links to my favorite "knit interfacings are as follows:
Pellon SK135 - Fusible lightweight tricot with crosswise stretch and no stretch lengthwise. 
Pellon EK130 – Fusible, standard weight tricot. Same characteristics and use as above.
Pellon 460 - Very lightweight knit stabilizer with multi-directional stretch. (My favorite)

I fuse these strips to my knit hems, then turn up and press the one inch hem before hemming. This works well for hems that are topstitched with a twin needle, cover-hem machine, a stretch stitch on your machine, or the serger style blind hem.

Below are pictures of an alternative T-Shirt hem with the hem stabilized with fusible tricot then stitched using a stitch on my machine that is not only pretty but has a bit of stretch. Note: Be sure to use a stretch needle size 11 for sewing knits on your sewing machine.

You can watch a video with more details for using this method, along with an alternative idea for stitching a neckline on a knit T-Shirt HERE on my YouTube Channel. This technique adds an elegant touch to a knit top! This video also includes tips for sewing a knit top on your standard sewing machine.

For the Sewing Machines Plus show, I used Jalie pattern 2805.

The 1/4-inch seam allowance included in this pattern makes it ideal for stitching with the serger. Take care to find fabric that meets the stretch requirements for this pattern. I always try to make a test garment when using a new pattern. Once I perfect the fit, I'm likely to use it over and over again so I transfer my perfected pattern to pattern transfer cloth such as Swedish Tracing Cloth, or Pellon 830 Easy Pattern.

For sizing my tiral garment, I like to pick my size using the measurements closest to my body, then add additional seam allowance so I have a total of 1-inch for side seams and corresponding sleeve seams, then I baste the seam at the one inch seamline, try on and adjust as necessary. That additional seam allowance can make or break the project as it's easier to take in that it sometimes is to let out a seam.

I hope this gives you some inspriation to make your own knit T-Top! If you'd like more serger sewing inspiration, check out this former live Q&A show titled What Can a Serger Do For You? on my YouTube channel HERE.

Oh wait! Just one more link to a serger Do's and Don'ts post. You'll find it HERE on my site.

As always, I welcome your questions and comments!

​This post is an overview of information presented on Sewing Machines Plus Sew Fest 2023. You can CLICK HERE to watch my one hour long Fun with Your Feet segment on the SMP YouTube channel. You'll find all five days of this special broadcast on the SMP channel​.

​Everything you see that is highlighted in blue is a link that will take you to more information. I've packed a lot into this post so sit back and take some time to read, watch, and enjoy!

In this post I'll give you some additional information on each of the six featured embellishment feet shown in the live show, along with more video resources for you to check out on my Let's Go Sew with Joanne Banko YouTube channel. I would be honored if you would consider subscribing to the Let's Go Sew channel. Once you subscribe, click the bell for notifications for future live shows and new videos added to the channel!

Okay, let's get started with the feet, in the order I showed them at the machine during the video. NOTE: Each one is hyperlinked with the bold blue lettering so you can click directly on the part number to view the foot on the Brother site.

Generally, these feet are not included as standard accessories with the purchase of a Brother machine. They do work with the vast majority of Brother machine with a 7mm  throat plate opening. These are optional accessories and are not engraved with a letter like most included feet. 

For other brands, your machine accessory package may be different. Check with your machine manufacturer to see if there are similar feet for your machine, comparing them by the name of the foot and the image of the foot itself.

As you saw in the presentation, this foot is one of my favorites for the ultimate in accuracy! Whether you're stitching on an edge or using the foot to join pieces together, the edge guide keeps you on track and makes your finished stitching look flawless!

​CLICK HERE to watch a short video showing how to stitch silk ribbon to a pashmina, with designs from my Wrapped in Embroidery book. You'll find downloadable instructions for this project HERE.

For craft and general home decor project I use polyester satin ribbon or grossgrain ribbon. In particular, grossgrain ribbon is very durable and highly washable.

For special projects like the pashminas that need to drape, I use silk ribbon and have sucessfully washed it with delicate handling. Here is a resouce for the silk ribbon:https://www.mjtrim.com/ribbons-jacquards/silk

Craft pearls on a string are generally available in 3-5mm width, perfect for sliding under the foot. Adding a string of pearls by machine gives such a special look to the simplest of projects! Making a simple fabric gift bag and adding pearls to the top edge makes the bag a "keeper" and worthy of any precious gift you wish to give.

CLICK HERE to watch a short video with more ideas and information for sewing pearls and sequins with this foot.

CLICK HERE to view instructions for the gift bag with pearl trim.

​Once again, this foot gives you options for stitching with your desired amount of cords, anywhere from one to five! Designed for thinner cording, use a dental floss threader to guide cords into the slot.

I used this foot for a cute swimsuit cover-up in an archived post on the Brother blog. You can view the instructions when you CLICK HERE.

I have used this foot a ton over the years! With three slots you have so much versatility, and this foot allows for a variety of cording weights. Remember, if the cord slides into the slot of the foot and slips back and forth easily, it is fair game to try with this foot!

​CLICK HERE  to watch a short video with more ideas and information for using this foot to add corded embellishment.

I've literally been using this foot for years! It may very well be one of the first embellishment feet I ever purchased.

The opening on this foot is adjustable to fit a variety of widths of cord, ribbon, and trim up to 1/4-inch wide. I like to use 1/4-inch bias trim with this foot. There are so many possibilities with this foot! 

Yes indeed! This is another one of my favorites! This foot was specifically designed for use with Candlewicking stitches developed for the Brother machines. Take a look at the beautiful decorative candlewicking stitches on the  pillow below, with rose embroidery designs added from my Just Jackets embroidery design collection:

CLICK HERE to see how to use the My Custom Stitch feature found on many Brother machines to create your own candlewicking stitch.

​Samples were stitched on blue medium weight linen. Any medium weight woven fabric is good for stitching these samples. I just happen to have a remnant leftover and the blue shows up well on camera.

Be sure to stabilize fabric that is not firm in and of itself. I use a tear away if the wrong side will not show, carefully tearing away the excess when my stitching is complete. Stay Perfect Tear Away stabilizer from Sewing Machines Plus is an ideal choice: https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/stayperfect-precut-medium-tearaway.php 

Wash away stabilizer is another option when you need to be able to remove the stabilizer completely. Always test your combination before using on your actual project.

If your project allows for it, you can leave a little extra trim at each end and trim excess when you're finished stitching.

I did get some questions about needles and thread. Here are some tips: If my fabric or trim is shiny I use polyester embroidery thread. If I want my stitch to “disappear” I use good quality monofilament thread, clear (for lights), or smoke (for darks). Sewing machine shops will likely carry the best brand of monofilament so check there for availability first. I have also used Sulky Find .004 Soft monofilament on the 2,200 yard spool. Smaller spools tend to kink more so I prefer the larger ones. You may want to decrease the needle tension 1 number or so when using monofilament. A size 11-14 Top-stitch needle works best for monofilament thread. In addition, it is not recommended to use an automatic needle threader with monofilament.

Most often, I use an embroidery needle (size 11), with embroidery thread. Other times, I will match my needle type and size to the fabric I am stitching on, i.e. Jeans needle for denim, topstitch, micortex, or quilting needle when I need a sharp needle. For a full tutorial on selecting needles, visit my YouTube channel where I interviewed Rhonda Pierce, the needle expert from Schmetz Needle Co: CLICK HERE

I welcome any additional comments or questions you might have! Please leave them below.

Using a quilt as you go method, these blocks work for so many different projects, including table runners, placemats, totes, and all kinds of colorful quilts paired with 5-inch charm squares and optional batting. Heather showed exactly how to cut and sew the blocks during the show.

Combine patchwork with denim for pillows and use every part of old jeans for embellishment. even zipper teeth can be used as an accent!

How about using strips of denim to make coiled bowls? These are all the rage! While this pic didn't make it into the show, I hope to have Heather on in the future to show us how it's done.

Denim doesn't have to be blue. Here we see a pretty pink piece she decorated with small pattern stitches on the embroidery side of her machine and turned into a cute little duffel bag. Yet another example of Heather's creativity that we didn't get to see during the show.

In talking about storing jeans for future use, Heather told us she  likes to sort by color, and often cuts up the jeans into usable pieces, keeping the extra parts such as pockets, zippers, etc. aside to use for embellishment purposes.

Heather spends a lot of time creating in her sewing space. She shared some of her favorite tools on the show, including her favorite blue ink wash away fabric marking pen, brand name Leonis, found HERE online.

​Having a mini iron is an essential in her sewing repertoire. When I asked Heather what helps make her sewing space a happy place, she said she likes to see what she has, so storing supplies in clear containers helps her make her sewing space a happy place. Having her 3 dogs near by, with their dog beds finding a prominent place in her space keeps her happy too!!!

Oh yes! Heather has many other interests that keep her busy. Living in a rural environment, Heather and her hubby grow veggies for canning, raise chickens, and are known as the the Banks Beekeepers. 

Connect with Heather and learn more from her when you visit her sites:
Website: ​sewingwithheather.com
You Tube channel:
www.youtube.com/@sewingwithheather
​Etsy Store:
www.etsy.com/shop/InventiveDenim
​Private Facebook Group: The Education Connection (with Cindy Hogan)

Watch the replay video on my Let's Go Sew with Joanne Banko You Tube channel HERE.

As promised, I'm sharing some resources to follow up the two 25 minute segments I presented during the annual Sewing Machines Plus Hoop Fest. You can check out the SMP YouTube channel HERE for replays of all five days. There were lots of great presentations and guests sharing helpful and interesting ideas to help you enjoy the art of machine embroidery. And oh yes! There were tons of specials on a multitude of great products!

Throughout the two segments you see embroidery designs from my Just Jackets collection, and from my book titled Wrapped in Embroidery.

Options for purchasing either of these include ordering special packages from this website using the links above.

In addition, you can visit Sewing Machine Plus for the Just Jackets downloadable version HERE and standard book option for Wrapped in Embroidery HERE. The choice is yours!

Okay, on to highlights and resources to follow up from the presentations I prepared for the Thursday LIVE show.

Segment #1:
Building Big Embroidery with All Size Hoops
Watch the entire segment below:

In this segment I showed how to use paper and printed templates to precisely position designs using center markings. In my demonstration I used a standard 4-inch hoop and the plastic hoop grid that comes with most hoops. As a Brother ambassador, I'm working with Brother hoops included with the machine. If you have hoops without these grids, I suggest you contact your dealer or machine manufacturer to ask about grids for your hoops. By the way, my featured machine for this demo was the NS1750D combo sewing and embroidery machine.

You'll see how I created a two identical designs made up of four rose clusters. One was stitched using templates to align four separate designs in four separate hoopings with a 4-inch hoop, while the other was done in an 8 X12 hoop, stitching all four designs at once. You'll see that no matter your hoops size, big or small, templates allow for stitching multiple designs and building big designs. With a template of a single design in a smaller hoop you simply follow the steps to re-hoop with precision placement. In contrast, if you had a template consisting of the four rose clusters grouped together, you could stitch larger areas more quickly with the use of a larger hoop.

Below are a few resources that coordinate with the information in the video:

Software for printing templates - Embroidery Tool Shed is a free program from my friends at Dime. It's sew easy to print a template using Embroidery Tool Shed. Follow the steps below:

1. Open your design in Embroidery Tool Shed Software.
2. In the File Menu, select "print"
3. In Print Preview, you can select "Settings" and mark the checkboxes next to: realistic, crosshairs, actual size, stitches.
4. Choose the print button when you're ready. 

Tool Shed allows for printing templates and includes all of the following features:

• Read and write popular formats
• Resize designs
• Cut, Copy, Paste
• Rotate and Mirror
• Re-colorize designs
• Print templates with image, color sequence and cross hair
• Convert colors between brands
• Design Analyzer
• Stitch Sequence Simulator
• Zoom, Pan, Realistic viewing options
• View Stitch Ends, Commands
• Adjustable Viewing Grid
• View and Create Hoops
• Junk Stitch Filter

*Embroidery Tool Shed software also houses the entire collection of Inspiration software available for purchase from Designs in Machine Embroidery. Access all of your programs directly in the Tool Shed or download new applications as you need them all in one convenient location. No more flipping back and forth from software program to program - everything you need is right in the Tool Shed! Of course, the folks at Dime have other great software programs for purchase too.

For Brother specific software options available for purchase, you can take a look at various options in various price ranges available from sewingmachinesplus.com HERE. I happen to like the features found in the Brother BLUE Software.

Print templates onto Dime *Print & Stick Target Paper for reusable and repositionable templates that stay put while you are designing your masterpiece.

No software? No problem! I showed how you could use graph paper to make accurate template. Print your own millimeter or other size graph paper using the Brother Creative Center found HERE.

Segment #2:
Embroider First, Sew Second
Watch the entire segment below:

Segment #2, compliments segment #1 and I highly recommend watching both of them. In this presentation you'll see embroidered garments and learn tips and tricks for embroidering sections of fabric prior to sewing into a garment. Below you'll find a PDF that coordinates with this segment and includes a sheet with resources.

Let's go Sew LIVE shows for the past two months have been all about the world of sergers. While both of these shows are packed with information, I will readily admit they just scratch the surface. I've got plans for additional videos with more in-depth tutorials for you so stay tuned!

By way of introduction, I got into the serger universe before they were available to the home sewing market. In fact, my first serger experience was at the tender age of 16 when I started working for a custom drapery manufacturer.

The first serger I touched sat in a pan of oil, stitched at lightning speed, had no manual to reference and no color coding or threading chart to guide the operator of such a beast. I use the term beast, tongue in cheek. While it was a bit of a challenge to master, it operated flawlessly and made quick work of seaming together panels of expensive fabric for designer jobs and high-end department stores.

I could tell lots of stories of what it was like to work there for several years during high school and then part time as I attended fashion school. However, that's a topic for another time. Let's just say it was a real opportunity to get in on the ground floor serger wise. In fashion school several of us bought the first home model type of serger, which at that time was sold by industrial dealers that catered to small business and cottage industries. After graduating from Progressive Fashion School in good old Cleveland, Ohio, I used that machine in my start up custom dressmaking business. It was a huge asset to finish seams, so they looked like they came from ready to wear.

I say all this to set the stage for the start of a series of serger related blog posts along with links to current & recent videos on the topic. If you've been following my Sew . . . Tell Me Live shows you know that I did two in a row based on commonly asked serger questions. I'll link to these videos at the end of this post.

For today, I'm sharing images and descriptions of a few of the most commonly used serger stitches, with both graphics and actual photos.  Let's talk about choosing and using common serger stitches. Here we go!

One needle, along with the upper and lower looper are necessary in order to form this stitch. Most sergers use the left needle to achieve a wide stitch and the right needle to achieve a stitch that is narrower. I prefer this stitch for seaming knit fabric. It provides for stretch and recovery of the seam. Although the 4-thread stitch can be used for more stable knits, the extra needle thread in a 4-thread seam somewhat inhibits the flexibility of the seam on lighter and more stretchy knits so I prefer to drop the right needle and serger with 3 threads.

The 3-thread stitch also neatly finishes the raw edges of seams that are sewn on a conventional machine. Using a combination of your regular sewing machine straight stitch along with a 3-thread overlock allows you to produce a seam that is sewn securely, as well as being neatly finished at the raw edges.

Serge finish edges and sew a conventional seam, pressing seams open, or sew, then serge and trim excess seam allowance for a seam pressed to one side. Use whatever method is best for your project.

A 3-thread stitch is ideal for finishing raw edges that traditionally required “clean finishing” by zig zagging or overcasting, turned under edges under, or bound edges. Hem and facing edges are prime examples.

Since a balanced three thread stitch looks almost identical on both the upper and lower looper side, it makes for a reversible stitch particularly when heavy threads are used in the loopers for decorative serging.

Little known and infrequently used, this stitch has become much more common on many serger models. In my opinion it is a valuable and useful option.

An attachment is used to de-activate the upper looper so that only one needle and the lower looper are used to form the stitch. This stitch does not lock at the seamline, making it unsuitable for use as a regular seam, unless you are using it as a flatlock stitch to seam two ravel proof materials together. Again, not trying to tease you but I'll have more on that technique in a future post.

A 2-thread stitch produces a lightweight finish requiring only two thread spools or cones. This makes it economical, especially for those who sew with a wide variety of colors and like their serger thread to match their fabric perfectly.

When used to finish the raw edge of fabrics this stitch is properly called overcast, not an overlock as it overcasts the raw edge without locking at the seamline.

A 2-thread stitch can also be used for a variety of decorative finishes. In addition, a variation of this stitch can be used to form a rolled hem.  Using only two threads makes it a lighter weight counterpart to the three-thread version. More on the rolled hem coming soon!

I hope this gives you some insight into serger stitches that will help you sew neater, nicer, and more professional looking projects. Please feel free to leave your comments and questions below. I'll make note of them for future posts and videos.

You can watch the first live show with serger Q&A when you CLICK HERE to watch on my YouTube channel.

You can watch the second live show with serger Q&A when you CLICK HERE to watch on my YouTube channel.

And, if you haven't already done so, I invite you to CLICK HERE​ to subscribe to the channel and hit the bell for notifications so you never miss a new video.

Download this article in PDF form:

I recently bustled the dress for this beautiful bride. The groom is the son of Deb, and step son of Don, my special friends who live out of State. You can learn more about them and their own sewing adventures in the replay of this YouTube show HERE.

I volunteered somewhat last minute to be the official "bustler." Originally, I thought they just needed me to figure out how to drape the dress and make it hang nice. Indeed, the draping part is quite an art in an of itself. Turns out, there were no loops or "bustling buttons" in place when I arrived 2 days before the wedding. While the family was busy with last minute preparations, I scoured the sewing room for something to make this work. I should mention that the sewing room is well stocked due to the fact that both Deb and her hubby Don sew, embroider, and craft the most amazing things. However, it was not full of much in the way of dressmaking supplies.

I searched the drawers and cubbies and found coarse crafting yarn but no silken cord or pearl like buttons like I happen to have at home in my own stash. Believing that necessity is the mother, father, sister, brother, and first cousin of invention, I ended up making cording from thread, sewing loops to the lining and then the netting layers on the dress, stabilizing the four layers of fine netting with little circles of embroidery stabilizer. Deb was tasked with hunting for some sparkling buttons to add to the back bodice to hook the loops onto. She came home with some stunning button options from good ole Hobby Lobby. 

Step One: Cut three sets of three strands of smooth, strong thread. I used polyester machine embroidery thread. Tip: Cut strands about 12-inches long. Any longer and you risk tangling while braiding.

P.S. While braiding the strands, the groom's beloved grandmother June reminded me of Ecclesiastes 4:12 where it says that a cord of three strands is not easily broken. How true!!!

Step Three: Carefully braid the strands together into a smooth, tight cord.

Step Four: Thread cording into a large eyed needle to insert where ever you need it. Be sure to anchor the ends with secure knots.