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Serger Do's and Dont's

4/17/2021

30 Comments

 
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As seen on It's Sew Easy TV show 2101-1
Is your serger collecting dust? Recently, I asked a group of sewing enthusiasts what they have been doing with their serger. One honest friend replied collecting dust! I'm afraid this is all too common, especially when someone is new to the world of serging and is intimidated by the dials, knobs, and general strangeness of this machine when compared to a sewing machine. After all, most of us can sit down at just about any sewing machine, thread it up and at least sew a straight seam.

Sergers, also known as overlockers, seem to look just a bit different and while there are some similarities between sergers and sewing machines, they are truly two different animals. 

In this post I'll share some simple Do's and Don'ts to follow. Whether you are a seasoned serger stitcher or a newbie when it comes to overlockers, I think you'll find a tip or two that will work for you.
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Do's and Don'ts for Standard 4-thread Sergers
Serger Do's - What you should do.
  • Use good quality synthetic cone thread. Lesser quality threads are made up of short fibers, break easily, and leave more fuzz. You can also use regular spools of sewing thread in your serger if you're in a pinch for color matching your fabric. In this case, I prefer to use a thinner thread such as Mettler or Guttermann.
  • Practice serging with threads that are color matched to your machine's tension dials to become familiar with making tension adjustments. 
  • Change needles frequently, using correct type & size for your machine. A universal size 14 is considered pretty standard but I sometimes use a size 11 or 12.
  • Insert needles in the proper direction and up as far as they will go. When removing needles use the appropriate screwdriver and loosen the screw just enough to remove the needle. Leave screw at that semi-loose position until you put another needle in its place. If you tighten down the screw each time you remove a needle you may eventually form a burr. A burr can prevent needles from going all the way up into the hole.
  • For most sergers you will want to thread machine in this order: Upper looper first, Lower looper second, and Needles last. In general, the right needle is threaded first and the left needle second. If either of your loopers need to be re-threaded it is best to unthread the needle(s), rethread the looper(s), and then re-thread the needles last. If you don't want to un-thread and re-thread, then you’ll need to make sure the needle threads are brought to the top of the throat plate and placed under the foot to the back of the machine, after you re-thread a looper and before forming a stitch. This is VERY important! If needle threads are caught behind a looper when your loopers are re-threaded, the looper thread will simply break again. Following this rule will prevent lots of serger frustration.
  • Oil as specified in the manual. Clean face and lower area of machine with a soft brush. I like to use a 1-inch paint brush for cleaning the face and a stiffer nylon sewing machine brush to clean the blades and lower area. I also use a vacuum while brushing and avoid canned air.
  • Change needles regularly. You can usually "hear" a needle get dull. a dull needle makes a popping sound. Dull or damaged needles can also snag fabric and cause runs or holes.
  • When re-threading or starting off with a new stitch formation, take the first few stitches by hand to make sure the stitch forms and everything is running smoothly before using the foot control. 
  • Make some sort of obvious notation to serve as a warning if you disengage the cutting blade for a particular technique. I like to write a note on post it note paper that says Warning! Blade Disengaged! I leave it on my machine until I have re-engaged the cutting blade. 
  • Test your stitches on long scraps of the same fabric before sewing on the actual project. You will waste more thread with short test pieces as you'll have to chain on and off while testing. Use a long piece, stitch a few inches, check, adjust as necessary, and continue until you're satisfied with your adjustments. 
  • Avoid using pins with a serger or be sure to use them parallel to the seam, far away from the blades. Pins and serger blades are mortal enemies. Keep them away from each other at all costs!
Serger Don'ts - What you should NOT do.
  • Don’t turn the handwheel backwards once needles have been threaded. You will tangle the threads and make a mess. 
  • Don’t pull hard on the fabric from the front or back. This can cause the needles to hit the loopers, causing burrs on one or both. 
  • Don’t sew beyond the edge of the throat plate when the cutting blade has been disengaged. Remember the warning system described above.
  • Don’t re-thread the machine without following the proper threading order. Remember the rule about always threading needles last!
  • Don’t use inferior quality threads or old cotton threads. Cotton thread is usually a poor choice for any serger project. Tension on serger thread can make cotton snap and break easily.
  • Don’t neglect oiling! Most sergers require some, if not more oiling than you may think. If your serger has been sitting for a while be sure to oil before using. Too little oil is not a good thing but too much is not good either. Check your manual for specific oiling details. I like to periodically oil the blades of the serger with a cotton swab. This helps clean off residue and makes blades last longer.
  • Don’t serge at an erratic pace, meaning fast, slow, fast, slow. Instead, stitch at a steady, even pace. Stitching at an even pace will make the threads jiggle less and the tension will be more even. This is particularly important on sergers that are more in the budget range price wise.
My final don't? Don't let your serger collect dust. Stay tuned for more tips and tricks for using your serger to the fullest. CLICK HERE and check out this Let's Go Sew tip sheet and learn more about how sergers and sewing machines differ.

Want to see a video with tips for when to sew and when to serge? CLICK HERE to watch Sew it or Serge it, as seen on It's Sew Easy TV show 2101-1. On this show you'll see me demonstrate a variety of techniques using both the sewing machine and serger.

Would you like a PDF version of the Do's and Don'ts to print and keep by your machine? CLICK HERE.
30 Comments
Gail Beam
4/18/2021 04:31:04

Thank you so much Joanne for all of these tips! I really learned a lot of dos and don'ts. Since my two sergers were used and bought online, my knowledge has been just through the manuals.

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/18/2021 13:40:48

Hi Gail! I'm so glad this was helpful. Serger manuals tend to be pretty skimpy. Aside from basic threading information and a few technical diagrams, they don't really inform the user about the ins and outs of serging. Stay tuned for more info to come :-)

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Patricia Guerin
4/18/2021 05:53:34

Great reminders, especially oiling and needle sizes! And just plain using them!

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/18/2021 13:43:50

Great to hear from you Pat! I'm glad to know this info was helpful for you. Oiling is super important! I once had a student whose machine was frozen due to lack of oiling. She felt a little sheepish because she co-owned a machine shop with her husband and knew better. A good oiling and she was up and running again!

Reply
Paula A Groher
4/18/2021 11:21:23

Thank you for the do's and don'ts. I have been having trouble with my lower looper in which the thread keeps breaking. I used cheaper thread when I started with the serger. The lower looper started breaking after I worked on some fleece. So I took it into my Brother Dealer and they will give it a tune up. Thank you for the cleaning tip.

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/18/2021 13:46:14

Hi Paula! If timing is off or there are burrs somewhere, that can cause thread breakage too. Machines need TLC now and then. Consider it a trip to the sewing machine spa :-) Thanks for reading the post and leaving a comment.

Reply
Paula A Groher
4/23/2021 13:28:07

Hi Joann,
It's in the shop, thanks for your comment.

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/23/2021 13:40:51

Hope you're back to happily stitching soon Paula!

Clovis
4/18/2021 13:01:12

Thanks, Joann. I think I need to oil my Serger. Haven't done it in awhile.

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/18/2021 13:50:47

Hello Clovis! One of the reasons sergers need more oiling is because all the accumulated fuzz soaks it up. Your manual should show the important points. Essentially, it is wherever metal rubs against metal. While I've never seen advice to oil the blades, I've been doing it for years, just like I oil my scissors and shears. Give your serger some TLC and it will serve you well. Happy sewing!

Reply
Karen Meyer link
4/20/2021 12:50:04

Can you put the dues and don’ts into a PDF that I could laminate it and put under my surgery please I think it would help all of us to have it really handy next to our machine

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/20/2021 15:45:55

Your wish is granted Karen! I've added a link to a PDF download so you can print these tips. Enjoy!

Reply
brendalynne1
4/22/2021 02:22:28

thank you, I never recall seeing anything about oiling my serger and since my reg. machine says i do not need oil, i did the old assume thing and have NEVER oiled my serger. this is truly a treasure trove of information. I learn something new every blog post.thank you

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:26:57

So glad to hear from you brendalynne1 :-) It's really helpful to know you are learning from each post. Thanks for taking the time to write!

Reply
Gail Beam
4/22/2021 02:28:59

Hi Joanne, I am looking forward to the SMP Virtual Hoop Fest that you are going to present at. Thanks for the Serger Dos and Don'ts. I printed off a copy for each one of my sergers

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:28:06

Hello Gail! The SMP Hoop Fest will be a lot of fun, I'm sure of that! It was great to hear from you!

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Theresa
4/22/2021 09:28:11

Thank you so much Joanne for your great information for our sergers. You are so generous with your knowledge and I appreciate all the information that you share with all of us. You are an earth angel....

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Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:29:15

My oh my Theresa! Your kind comments made my day! Thank you!!!

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Susan Fischer
4/22/2021 10:14:12

Great list of do's and don'ts, JoAnne! Thanks!

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:31:21

I'm super glad to know you found these helpful Susan! My next tip sheet will have information about 2, 3, and 4 thread serger stitches. Stay tuned!

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Genny Burkholder
4/22/2021 10:51:39

Joanne thanks for the reminders. The only place I have heard of oiling the blade was when I purchased my old Berninia serger in 1996. The one point was oil your blade! I have done it on all sergers since. After oiling I run a scrap of fabric through to make sure any excess oil is off before using my good fabric. I oil my machine as you said every where metal touches metal! Your comments are always so good on maintaining our valuable equipment! Thanks!

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:34:38

Thanks for sharing your thoughts Genny! Knowing what TO do and what NOT to do can same lots of time and frustration. I just want you and everyone else to enjoy the time spent in your sewing space. Your tip for running scrap fabric through the machine is a very good one. Thanks for mentioning it!

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Kathleen OLeary
4/22/2021 14:48:07

Thank you for the info. Gotta dust off my serger.

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Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:36:26

Hello Kathleen! I'm glad to know this tip sheet prompted you to dust off that little baby! Happy stitching!

Reply
Janet Dees
4/22/2021 15:41:06

Thanks Joanne! Love your blog and all the detailed instructions.

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Joanne Banko
4/22/2021 18:37:22

Your comments are very much appreciated Janet! Thanks so much for taking the time to write!

Reply
Christine Pocek
4/23/2021 13:05:31

Hi Joanne, Just printed the serger info. Will be so nice to have close by to review before I begin a new project. Thanks for the printed version, very helpful.

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/23/2021 13:25:45

Glad to offer something helpful for you Christy! It was great to hear from you :-)

Reply
Rachel
3/20/2022 12:43:40

I have a Brother overlocker and the loops are hitting each other and get jammed. Is there a way to fix this myself or do I need to take it to a technician?

Reply
Joanne Banko
4/4/2022 13:23:38

Hi Rachel, sorry for the delay in responding to your question. If your loopers are misaligned and actually touching, that is indeed a job for a technician. Sergers require perfect timing to form the stitch properly. Hope you get it fixed and are ready to serge some nice projects once again!

Reply



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