The embellished white blouse in Volume 111 of Designs in Machine Embroidery magazine features delicate appliqués accented using tools found in My Design Center. Complete instructions for the project can be found in V.111.
 
Follow along here as I show you a few more details with options for creating projects that take advantage of this unique feature built-in to the Brother Dream Machine.

My Design Center is filled with creative tools for drawing and creating shapes, filling shapes with a variety of stitches, and includes drawing tools for adding fine details. The Premium PackII upgrade expanded these options even further, making it easier than ever to make unique embroidery designs right at the machine! Create completely new designs or add elements to existing designs using My Design Center. Your local Brother dealer will have more info on this exciting upgrade option.                   

For the blouse featured in V.111 I opted to add small accents to pieces of pre-printed fabric. I started by adding a fusible backing and then I stitched the flowers to the blouse as appliques, using a fine thread and a very narrow zigzag stitch. This technique produces a very soft, lightweight design that’s perfect for light weight garments.

Tip: If you want to make fusible appliques when you’re finished with the embroidered accents, I highly recommend Misty fuse.

​Place fabric in the hoop with a layer of stabilizer underneath. Touch the icon to scan the fabric in the hoop. Touch Scan>OK.

 The fabric image appears on the screen.

With the pencil tool highlighted, add lines by touching the line settings key. 

​Notice how the zoom feature helps you get close up for drawing on the screen. Increase the percentage, and then drag the box in the upper right hand corner of the screen directly over the section you want to work with.

I like to use the stylus to draw the accent lines. Remember that you can use the UNDO key at any time to delete your last step, or touch All Clear to begin again.  

Touch NEXT and then touch Preview when you’re ready to set the stitches. Note: the optional Premium Pack II for the XV8500D and XV8550D included new and updated features for this type of design work. Review the Brother Dream Machine II Operation Manual Addendum for the most updated and complete instructions.

Touch Set to go directly to the Embroidery mode to test your stitches. You’ll get the Uh -Oh, is this okay type message you see here. Basically, the machine wants you to know that you can’t go back once you go beyond this screen. When you’re working on an actual project you’ll want to save the stages of your work, so you can go back and edit without starting all over again.

The process for adding satin style zigzag stitches is the same as you see here. You’ll simply select the zigzag in place of straight stitches. You’ll see that there are other options as well. I suggest you start with simple applique shapes, simple stitches, and then move on to more detailed designs once you have played with this a little bit.

This season the designers are all heroes as they share techniques that will make your sewing nothing short of super!  

Save the day with quick sewing gifts; rescue vintage fashion with new updates or learn to master your machine.
 
Throughout the series Angela Wolf takes you on a sew-along with skirts, skirts, and more skirts!

I'm happy to be able to share a few of these with you now. You can click on the photos to watch three of these today!​

#1513 Growing Up a Star  

• Joanne Banko shows how to bundle up your baby with a hooded towel wrap with several variations. 
• Emily Thompson is back with leggings that are guaranteed to give your favorite little girl star power.
• Angela Wolf finishes up the skirt se-along with a  recap of and a final tip.

Visit www.itsseweasytv.com for TV station information and options for purchasing the entire series to view at your leisure and watch as many times as you like to edit.

Have you ever wanted to change button sizes on a pattern but you were unsure about repositioning your coordinating button holes? Changing a button size means changing spacing. Spacing from the edge is called the "stay." Take a look at the guide below and you"ll get details for how to measure and mark according to button size.

​Stay is the amount of space between the edge of the garment and where the buttonhole is placed. The stay usually equals the size of the button. However, you never go under ½- inch or over 1-inch.
 
Example:
½-inch button equals ½-inch stay
¾-inch button equals ¾-inch stay
1 ¼-inch button equals a ONE inch stay
¼-inch button equals a ONE HALF inch stay

Feel free to change button sizes and alter your button hole spacing to make both buttons and buttonholes coordinate beautifully.

Whether you're cutting patchwork pieces for quilts, constructing garments, turning out designer home decor, or crafting some other sort of masterpiece, it's likely you are measuring many times throughout the process. ​

Today's tip is to always use the same measuring device throughout your project when ever the ultimate in accuracy is important. If you look closely at the cutting mat, quilting ruler, tape measures, and seam gauge you'll notice slight differences between each of them.

When compared side by side the quilt ruler and the seam gauge would be virtually identical and a pretty close match to the cutting mat. However, if you were to switch between all four of these while trying to cut same size pieces you would get some minor discrepancies. While it may not show up  with short measurements the compound effect would surely be noticeable on larger pieces. Tuck this tip in your back pocket and remember it next time you reach for multiple measuring devices.

Measure twice cut once, but do it all with consistent measuring tools for happier sewing and more polished projects!

When is the last time you sat down to play with decorative stitches on your machine? Many decorative stitches are far prettier stitched in thread as opposed to an image in your machine machine manual or on the screen of your machine. Thread your machine and see watch as little flowers bloom and a myriad of decorative stitches come to life! I hope this little sampler will encourage you.

Here are some tips:

• Use a (sharp) topstitch needle on a firm woven fabric. I like to make samples on even weave linen purchased in the cross stitch department.
• Place crisp tear away stabilizer on the wrong side or fuse interfacing to the wrong side. I like to use Pellon Shir-Tailor and skip the tear away.
• Choose polyester decorative thread, same as used for embroidery for strong and colorfast thread on the top.
• Wind a matching bobbin, or use bobbin thread. For most stitches the white bobbin thread is ideal. As an added benefit you can stitch multiple colors without changing thread in the bobbin. See right and wrong side below:

In summary, it's wise to study patterns carefully. Experiment with different brands by making test garments from bargain fabrics. If you find a brand that seems to suit you it's wise to stick with that brand.

For many years I've been a fan of New Look patterns and I've found them to run very true to size. This means I need to be very honest with my measurements when compared to the pattern envelope. However, it also means I can be pretty sure of a good fit when I pick a size that's closest to my personal measurements. How about you? Do you have a favorite among the major pattern companies? Please share your own experiences in the comments below.

Ever get confused while cutting numerous strips of different widths? I seem to lose the line on my ruler and end up with a mixed bag of skewed sizes and strips that slipped. Now I make a point to place sticky notes along the line I'm using for my specific measurement. It's easy to move the paper and stick it  along different lines on the ruler for goof proof strip cutting.

By the way, it helps to have no slip grips on the bottom side of rotary cutting rulers. These TrueGrips from the Grace Company fit their own specialty rulers and all others too. These little circles are clear and very flat. They increase safety and make all your cutting more accurate.

I hope these little tips have been helpful. Soon I'll have all my strips cut and ready to sew so I can share them with you in a future post!

This short video shows how easy it is to stitch a blind hem on knit fabrics. Watch as the stitch forms with zigzag traveling stitches and one big zigzag stitch that bites into the hem.

The first step for a blind hem is to fold up the hem and press. ​

The blind hem foot, foot "R" is made to perfectly coordinate with the standard blind hem stitch or the stretch version. This foot has a blade down the center that is meant to rid along the fold of the hem so you stitches stay consistent. This foot is not adjustable. In this case the stitch is adjusted to "bite" more or less of the hem.

​Some machines have an adjustable blind hem foot and the foot is adjusted so the stitch bites more or less of the hem. Watch the video again and you'll see how the finished blind hem stretches along with the fabric.

Ideally you want the stitches to barely show or not show at all on the outside of the finished garment. Thicker or more spongy fabric hides stitches better than thinner, flat fabric. This example shows the blind hem stitched with contrast thread for better visibility. Choose a thread color that matches as close as possible so the stitches hide in the fabric and are barely noticeable.

Have you ever used the blind hem stitch for stretch fabrics? Do you have any questions about sewing blind hems? If so I would love to know . . . please leave your comments and questions so I can help.

Do you struggle with standard, ready to wear T-shirts that are too long? Or, do you like to make your own knit tops from soft jersey or interlock knits? In either case you may have found that thinner knits in particular are tough to tame when it comes to top stitching hems. Here is a tip for stitching a nice, neat, twin needle hem. Begin by gathering your supplies:

• Stretch twin needle, size 75/11
• Fine, sheer, fusible tricot interfacing - I like Pellon 135.
• Two spools of good quality polyester thread and a bobbin to match.
• Rotary cutter and ruler for cutting tricot strips and cutting a straight edge for T-shirt hem.

Plan for a 1-inch hem on the garment and cut a 1-inch wide strip of tricot to fit hem circumference, making sure to cut length of tricot on the crosswise grain to maintain a bit of stretch.

Fuse tricot to wrong side of hem, having tricot even with cut edge.​
Tip:The rough side is the fusible, "glue side" of the tricot.

Press up hem and mark raw edge with a pin.

Flip to right side and see where you need to position folded edge so both needles catch raw edge on the wrong side. Remove pin. See red arrows below.

Stitch slowly, keeping folded edge even with your guideline. See below for finished hem on right side. Note that sample is stitched with contrast thread for better visibility.

Have you ever tried this method? If not, do you think you will try it now that you have a little tutorial? Let me know in the comments below.

CLICK HERE to read my complete tip sheet on the Wonders of the Walking Foot.

Tips for preparing and stitching a quilt with decorative stitches:

• Begin with quality needles and thread. The smoother the thread, the prettier the stitch will be. A sharp needle such as a quilting needle (11-14) or a jeans needle (12-14), work well with cotton threads. A sharp needle pierces the fabric cleanly and evenly.
• Set machine for a slow, even speed. It will take longer to stitch from end to end but that’s okay, relax and enjoy the process.
• Use batting that is thin and firm. Warm and Natural is a good choice. Flannel is also a good substitute when you want to use decorative stitches. Be sure to wash and dry the flannel and make sure it is throughly pre-shrunk.
• Unless the quilt is very small you'll need to baste before stitching. Here are a few methods.

1.) Hand baste or machine baste with traditional thread, or water soluble thread if the quilt will be washed when completed.
2.) Use fusible basting spray. 
3.) Pin baste with long, flat pins such as flower head pins, OR quilter's safety pins.

• Make sure your entire quilt is supported by quilting in a table or cabinet with an insert, or by using a machine specific extension table. If the quilt falls away from the surface while you are quilting, the weight will drag the quilt down and possibly cause distortion of the stitches. Do WHATEVER you need to do to fully support the entire quilt. This is true even if your quilt is the size of a wall hanging.
• It is easier if you select stitches that do not exceed the 7mm width of the throat plate. Some of the wider (multi directional) decorative stitches will work but they require more practice to sew. It can be difficult to stay straight for lengthy sections with these super wide stitches. 
• You may get the better results by setting presser foot pressure slightly less than standard.
• Consider using a water soluble "fibrous" stabilizer to further “beef up” the fabric for decorative stitches to form properly. Another good water-soluble stabilizer is sold in a liquid form. The brand name is Perfect Sew®. 
• Experiment with increasing stitch length and width to allow the stitch to flow more freely across the fabric.
• Be careful when crossing seams. You may need to stop when you reach the seam, lift the presser foot to smooth the fabric, and then start again, making sure the foot lays flat on the fabric layers.

Did you learn anything new from this post? If so, please let me know in the comments below.

Feeling stuck when it comes to choosing a color scheme for a new project? Are you wanting to impress a friend with a gift but you're unsure of a good mix of colors? When in doubt consider designing with a classy, yet somewhat subtle tone-on-tone color scheme. If you are in making a gift, and you know your friend's all time favorite color you are good to go and ready to sew!!!

Take a look at the collection of fat quarters and trims in the photo above. They melt together with a soothing color scheme, yet they include just enough contrast due to the varying shades from one purple based color family.

When planning a machine embroidery project you may fall in love with the elements of a design yet the colors are all wrong for you personally, or for the intended project. Has this ever happened to you?  For me it seems to be a common occurrence. The artistic Floral Decorative design shown above happens to be one of my all time favorites. However, the color combo just doesn't mix with anything I have.

What do I do if my fabric is blue?!? Tone on tone to the rescue! By selecting embroidery thread colors in soft shades of blue the design takes on a whole new look! 

In pink . . .

And in green . . .

Same exact design, same amount of color changes, but a whole new scheme with a mix of light, medium, and dark shades of the same color. Of course you can also minimize the amount of color changes by repeating one or more colors in the design. This is especially easy to do when you are working with shades of the same color.

It's hard to go wrong by stitching a medley of similar colors. You could examine your original design and replace lighter areas with light colors and darker areas with darker shades. If you have the option to change thread colors right on the screen of your machine you can preview and make changes before you stitch. Yet another option is to use computer software to make and preview changes.

Perhaps your machine has an option to automatically rearrange the colors or even create a different mix of colors on your behalf. Take a look at the two butterflies below. Same design, but two totally different butterflies emerge using an option called Color Shuffle™ with a specific selection for tone on tone, also known as gradient, for the new color scheme.

This quick change artistry is accomplished in a few simple steps. Note that the original design has seven color changes. Remember that you can minimize colors by repeating them, using using less colors overall.

In the first step color shuffling option is accessed from Edit mode by touching the color palette icon and then selecting the color shuffling option.

​Color Palette Icon

The option for tone on tone (Gradient) and the desired number of colors becomes available. This is also where the number of colors can be minimized if you wish. I left it at seven.

After selecting a specific color spool for the color family, the machine magically provides many pages of options. 

Are you ready to experiment with tone on tone for a future project, or is this already a "go to" favorite technique for you? I'd love  to hear about your experiences. Please let me know in the comments below.

I know my readers have a wide variety of machine models with either manual or computerized buttonholes built in. Click on the super short video above and you'll see a computerized "one step" buttonhole in action on a Brother machine. I'll talk more about buttonhole set-up in a minute but first let me describe what you are seeing when you watch the video.

At the starting point the buttonhole sews backwards with a straight stitch, tracing the exact length of the buttonhole as determined by the button inserted at the back of the foot. Next, the same straight stitch is sewn forward, followed by the left "leg" of the buttonhole which consists of narrow zigzag stitches forming from front to back. The machine straight stitches forward, a bar tack forms at the front end of the buttonhole and then the machine stitches backward to form the right leg of the buttonhole with narrow zig zag stitches, and finally finishes with the bar tack at the back end.

What's important to note is that the zigzag stitching for both the right and left leg of the buttonhole form in the same direction, stitching from front to back. This prevents shifting that occurs when a buttonhole stitches out in a "box" formation, moving in different directions for each side. 

Notice how the button sits snugly in a slot at the back of the buttonhole foot. The spacing created between the white and the silver protrusions coordinate with the buttonhole lever mechanism on the machine, sensing the length. The buttonhole lever (identified with the red arrow below) comes in contact with these two parts and that makes the magic happen.

I think the sheen of the embroidery thread has a smooth look and mimics the old time silk buttonhole twist used for hand worked buttonholes in days gone by. In addition, embroidery thread is smoother than ordinary sewing thread. 

Take a look at the example below and you'll see ordinary sewing thread on top and embroidery thread on the bottom buttonhole next to the button. On the actual fabric sample the regular thread looks dull and the embroidery thread looks smooth and a little glossy. You decide what you prefer. 

I hope you found these tips helpful! If you have buttonhole questions or comments feel free to leave them below :-)

Have you noticed? Vintage is very much en vogue, tres chic, and making waves in the modern world of sewing! Particularly prominent lately are images, patterns, and books making headlines and taking us back in time with fashions and accessories from bygone eras. In this post I'd like to fill you in on a few blasts from the past that caught my attention recently.

Let's start with the 90th anniversary of Simplicity Pattern Company. If you visit the Simplicity site you'll see that they've been promoting a line of nostalgic images on everything from calendars, to tins, to notebooks, and more. It's fun to see these photos but it's even more fun to see some of the patterns reproduced into new patterns with modern measurements and pattern tissue complete with all the familiar markings for notches and other important information. 

I picked up a few intriguing options on a recent shopping trip. Take a look at the image above and you'll see three of my favorites. First there's is a set of sleeves from the 1930's, pattern 8506. I thought it would be fun to play around with these by adding them to a simple shell style blouse.

​Then a "folds flat" blouse for wovens from the 1940's caught my eye. View D of pattern 8593 looks fresh  and pretty with a yoke at the waist and a ruffle at the bottom. I think I have a piece of floral rayon waiting in the wings and perfectly sized for the yardage requirements.

This knit blouse takes less than a yard of fabric, has an interesting tutorial for putting it on, and looks like a real winner for travel and packability. ​Both of the blouses look like only an afternoon's worth of sewing time. Perfect timing on all three spring sewing and a wardrobe refresh!!!

While browsing the pattern book I came across one more "have to have it" pattern. Labeled as an authentic 1960's pattern, I first have to dispute the decade displayed on the envelope. You see, I remember buying this exact pattern and sewing the big shoulder bag from the tapestry fabric you see in the photo below. The year was 1977. Ahhh yes, I remember it well! 

It's quite a kick to see a favorite pattern make its way back into the pattern book. Talk about a trip down memory lane! I actually look but I didn't have the original pattern in my stash. Yes, I do still have some of my first patterns from the seventies carefully stored :-) The original pattern is not to be found but I did have that small remnant of the tapestry you see next to my new Simplicity 9553. This time around I want to make everything on the envelope, including the spats. Can you imagine the possibilities for adorning these with machine embroidery?

So how about you . . . do the nostalgic patterns hold any interest for you? Can you see yourself making any of these? I'd love to hear about your own favorite vintage patterns. Share your stories in the comments below!

Great News! It's Sew Easy TV series 1400 starts this week on PBS stations in the USA!!!
Find local listings at itsseweasytv.com.

Great projects, Great ideas, and Great fun for sewing enthusiasts of all levels!!!

 I had the privilege of demonstrating several exciting techniques in this new series.
Here's a sneak peek!

​Coat was made from Shannon Fabrics Cuddle® Suede. This faux suede is easy to sew, easy to care for, and wonderful to wear! 

I have lots of thoughts and ideas to share on this subject so today will be Part One of Creating with Color.
​
*Opinion by Brother Expert Consultant

Are you inspired by the colors in creation? This big blue sky sprinkled with fall colored leaves is a color mix tailor made to mimic with machine embroidery threads! Inspired by this photo, I just finished a simple fall project that will debut for you on the blog.brothersews.com site early in October. I can only give you a hint for today. I must withhold the nitty gritty details until the projects are officially released.

Below you see another color combo with a mix of colors common in earthy, natural surroundings.

This is the Chic Suede Wrap from Wrapped in Embroidery. The color of the designs on the front borders and the back yoke all started with inspiration from the silky scarf. 

Selecting just three colors from the print; a deep apricot, pale olive, and deep olive, I then found an off white suede that would stand out on the olive wrap fabric. By the way, both of these fabrics are dress weight suede with a luxurious look and soft drape. Faux suede is truly one of my favorite fabrics to use as a base for embroidery.

This is an example of a method I employ often. Choose a base fabric color, and then find an accessory or coordinating wardrobe accent and build from there. In this case I knew I wanted olive but had no plans for other colors until the silky scarf came into play.

Lets talk more about creating with color.  In some ways I consider myself more or less "color challenged." Whether it's combining fabrics for a quilt or choosing a totally new color palette for an embroidery design, I have struggled with choosing color combinations outside of my wardrobe basics. As a long time a dedicated garment enthusiast I am used to matching to the point of extreme perfectionism. Thread, zippers, button, trims, etc., all have prominent attention on a garment so unless you are attempting to create contrast they must match and match well. My make sure it matches habit sometimes stifles me. There is a time and place for tone on tone embroidery or subtle stitches (that's coming in part two), but many times embroidery is a stand out feature whether it is on a garment, quilt, craft time or object for home decor. Colors that pop out and have vibrancy are attention getters when it comes to embroidery but choosing "outside the box" color palettes is harder for me than matching.

This example is from a previous post on blog.brothersews.com. Click on the image below to view the original embroidered towel project.

The original colors of the design are quite different from the final outcome.

Again, I looked to the fabric for color cues. Fabric prints are designed by artists trained in the science of color or at least individuals who have a sense of color beauty far beyond my own. I found the towels first, and then hunted for complimentary printed fabrics. The resulting combination made for a matched set with lots of eye-catching style!

​Next time we'll talk more about tone-on-tone combinations and going with colors that speak to you, either subtly or by shouting :-) I promise you that all of this is very unscientific and non-artsy as I have no background in science or arts a profession, just many days of playing in my sewing spaced making the most of what the modern world of sewing and machine embroidery have to offer!

Are you inspired by the outdoors or possibly by browsing the aisles at your favorite fabric store? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comment section below.

 

Volume 106 of Designs in Machine Embroidery magazine is in print and also available online for current "hard copy" subscribers. 

In this issue my friend Reen Wilcoxson has an article (and a FREE embroiderygarden.com Design download) for her ever-popular In-The-Hoop cord wraps. Speaking of friends, Marie Zinno wrote detailed steps in her Hemline to Hipline article so you could embroider your own designer jeans. In her continuing T-Shirt saga ​Denise Holguin has done it again . . . taken a plain T-shirt and added a Bright Idea to turn a top into work of art!

​I'm happy to call three of these ladies friends. I know firsthand that they each love sharing their ideas and instructions so you can put them into practice and make pretty things with your own personal embroidery machine!
​
Personally, I consider it an honor to write for this magazine! Each issue features innovative ideas and includes something for everyone who is interested in embellishing with machine embroidery. The September/October issue is so full of beautiful pieces and fun projects that I'm tempted to write a review of the entire magazine! However, time and space are short so today I'll just hit some highlights and give you a few tips to complement the dress article I contributed for V106.

I'll start by saying that I always have far more information I'd like to add to each article but I am of course only allowed so many words and pages. However, thanks to the never-ending pages here on letsgosew.com I can provide extra goodies and supply you with added tips and techniques that would be too lengthy to fit in the confines of a magazine article. Lets start with the pattern featured for my Connection Perfection dress. Pretty enough for a princess and flattering for ALL figure types, you simply can't go wrong with a princess seamed pattern! Multiple seams mean opportunities for taking in or letting out as necessary.

I used View D and raised the neckline about an inch for a little less scoop. Now for the good news/bad news - M9026 has apparently hit the "out of print" list. The good news is the fact that princess seam patterns, both in knits and woven styles, are always available from one of the major pattern companies.

Sure, you could embellish the front area of a full front dress by blocking off a center section but by picking a princess seam pattern you can work with a smaller section of fabric.


​This makes the whole hooping process easier as you are not struggling with a large expanse of fabric.

Here you can see the markings for the neckline area. I started with an oversized piece of knit jersey stabilized with fusible tricot interfacing. Then I outlined the entire center section. In the article you'll see how I used a high tech built-in feature on the Brother Dream Machine. 

To match the embroidery I cut strips of bright pink thin knit and inserted them into the adjoining seams, sandwiching the strip between the layers of the seam like you would if you were adding piping. Voila! The color scheme ties together nicely and the dress gets an upgrade with trim that matches perfectly. Ahhh yes, embroidering by machine and then sewing from scratch provides endless opportunities for customizing and creating a unique finished garment! I hope you'll be inspired to create something special yourself.

​Feel free to leave comments and questions. I'd love to know if you have embroidered continuous connected designs with your embroidery machine! Was your placement perfect or do you still need help with this technique?

Don holds many titles and designations! A retired United States Navy man and former Blue Angels#7 Crew Chief/Maintenance man, he’s a Helpful Husband, Doting Grandfather, and a Devoted Dad.  Added to that mix he’s a Machine Embroidery Enthusiast who can drive a Harley and put the pedal to the metal on a Featherweight sewing machine too!

By way of introduction, I met Don last fall at a very special Tidewater Sew-Vac weekend event in Virginia Beach. Tidewater's educational director, Mary Beth Dodd wanted to make made sure I had support from an expert. She commissioned Don  to be one of my capable and ever helpful classroom assistants as I taught In-The-Hoop embroidery classes on the Brother PRS100 machine. Owning this machine himself, he enthusiastically showed students the ins and outs of threading and pushing buttons on the screen, helping them master the machine, have fun stitching, and make the most of the time spent in class.

​Don and his wonderful wife Debbie became fast friends of mine during that enjoyable weekend of classes and sewing camaraderie.

I thought you’d like to hear how this aviation mechanic started stitching and soon found himself helping others make the most of their machines.

Hi Joanne! I'm glad to talk to you and all your online friends. Debbie and I happily include ourselves in the group of regular readers here :-)

Right now, everyone can see you on your (conspicuously BLUE) Harley at the top of the page. I bet they are asking this question . . . How in the world did this guy get interested in Sewing?!?
Did you have any family members or friends that had sewing or embroidery machines? Please tell us the whole story as to how you got started.

Well, I have to start by saying that my wife Debbie is a super sewing enthusiast! With her encouragement I originally got started while recovering from a second round of shoulder surgery. At first I thought it would just be a good way to pass the time while I recovered. Then the whole thing turned into an interesting hobby. Eventually I started training others on how to use personal embroidery machines like my Brother PRS100, and also the Brother multi needle machines. I've been certified to service them as well, which is a natural direction for me to go since my "day job" involves working on high tech aircraft.

​As far as family goes, I can remember my talented and wonderful mom used to sew by hand.

Interesting! Perhaps the gift of sewing is somewhat inherited but also greatly influenced by the caring and supportive people in our lives.

​Gift making and gift giving plays a big part in many of the special items you make. Would you care to share a few examples? 

It's funny because my very first embroidery projects ended up being gifts. I embroidered a towel with my name on it and  took it to work. My co-workers wanted one for themselves so I made them their own personalized towels!

Ha! I'm picturing that and smiling!!! That must have made quite an impression! From a few of our past conversations I think we could do a whole story on your special gift giving! You have quite a reputation for embroidering gifts for others.

A lot of embroidery enthusiasts like to make repeats of a favorite project or design.  How about you, do you like to make multiples of the same basic items, or would you rather mix it up and try something new all the time?

I do mix in new stuff all the time, along with repeats of favorites such as bibs for my granddaughter and lots of hats. I also have friends pay me to do things for them. Since I can do hats with the cap frame on my machine that's a popular item I get requests for.

Yeah, we had over fifty ladies coming for Mother's Day tea and we wanted to make it a really special day for them.

I'm sure there were many happy faces at the tea party! Speaking of happy faces, that is yet another one of your special gift items - stuffed happy faces. I'm inserting a photo of the happy face emoji you personalized for me!

I remember you telling me you do more in the way of machine embroidery than sewing. Do you have some favorite embroidery collections?

Yes! I really ​like the Floriani Under the Sea collection and I have a lot of the Anita Goodesign CD's.

You have a dedicated sewing space and it's pretty unique at that! Can you tell everyone a bit about it?

Debbie and I share our sewing room/shed. It was going to be my tool shed till Debbie said she wanted it for the sewing room.  It's just a few steps from the house, near the Koi ponds we enjoy. With heat and air conditioning inside, it's quite comfortable and we can keep everything all in one place.

Along with the Persona for embroidery, my '59 Featherweight is part of the machinery I use to tackle a project.

​Debbie has her own favorite machine but I've been known to sneak in some sewing time on that machine too ;-)

I love helping other people learn about their new machines so that they can enjoy sewing as much as I do.

I remember the learning curve myself and I also know that you have to be comfortable pushing the buttons in order to master the machine and make full use out of it.
 
I tell everyone to just relax and enjoy the machine. I make a point to tell them the machine is "color blind" and you can do whatever you want with thread colors!  I also teach them how to hoop the right way so they won't have "hoop pop". Thank you Joanne for that phrase :-) As you know it happens when the fabric isn't snug and all the way down in the hoop where it should be. One little thread tug in the wrong place and POP goes the hoop!!!

On the free arm style machines I like showing them how easy it is to hoop a hat with the cap frame. Caps are really a popular item for embroidery and they're easy to do. I've embroidered lots and lots of hats!

You are certainly an expert hat stitcher Don! 

I'm retired from the Navy but my work today is in the same field. Family is a priority and fills our days with many different things. For relaxation I enjoy my 3 koi ponds and riding my motorcycle, either alone or with a group. 

We've covered a lot of sewing ground today! It's been fun re-living some of the happy memories we have from the retreat. Thanks so much for taking the time to talk and share your stories with us! Happy sewing Don!

Thank you Joanne for all that you have taught me and most of all for being such a great friend. 

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​Today I'm happy to bring you snippets of a very enjoyable conversation I had with my friend Molly Madison, designer of the Artisan Apron pattern featured in DiME Volume 104. 


It was so much fun making this apron! I thought you would enjoy meeting the designer, peeking into her creative world, and learning a bit more about the pattern.

Molly and I met last year during a series of In-The-Hoop Machine Embroidery events with mutual friend Reen Wilcoxson, owner of Embroidery Garden. Reen was the star instructor and Angela Wolf and I were privileged to play a part in these hands-on embroidery extravaganzas. Molly was on stage too, assisting Reen and quietly demonstrating steps for Brother multi-needle machines as participants stitched an array of beautiful projects.

These events were presented by Allbrands.com and held in various cities such as sunny San Antonio. Allbrands CEO, Blaine Austin brought us together as a group and almost instantly we all felt like we had known each other for years! An exciting adventure for each of us, we found time to mix work with play. Here we are enjoying the chance to have a photo op at the Alamo before heading to a group dinner. 

Artisan Apron sightings were common in San Antonio and other events. Would you believe these two lovely ladies had never met before this event in Baton Rouge? They came from different parts of the country and both wore aprons from the same fabric!!!

Molly's apron was new to me but not to Caroline and Carrie! They already knew that Molly's wonderful apron pattern was fun to make, fun to wear, and the perfect "fashion item" for creative individuals.

​Won't you all join me as we talk to Molly and take a peek into her creative and artistic world?

Hi Molly! I’m glad we could spend a little time chatting today. It’s always fun to talk to a fellow sewing friend! I'm quite sure there are MollyMade fans reading this right now!

​I'm curious, when and how did you learn to sew? 

I was 9 years old and took a sewing class in 4H. A neighbor had several girls over to her house and taught us how to sew. I thoroughly enjoyed that! The next opportunity to sew was in junior high home Ec class. I made a top that I never did wear, but I didn’t give up. I kept sewing and in high school I even made senior garters to sell. Made a couple of my own prom dresses too! When my first son was born I made many comfy baby items using mostly knits. I have sewn for others as well, making a couple (not too elaborate) wedding dresses and a prom dress for a niece. I learned mostly by trial and error and by reading instructions.

How about now, what are some of your favorite ways to learn new skills?

I like taking classes. There is so much to be learned from others.  I recently took a class with Angela Wolf to learn more about sewing with knits. When I help Reen at her classes, I always learn new things from the attendees. 

Sewing enthusiasts are so willing to share their success stories and their mistakes with others, aren't they?!? I know we saw and heard a lot of inspiring stories at our events together.

​So, what is the most challenging thing you have ever sewn?

This dress was super challenging, but it did turn out beautiful.

​Ha! I have to say that job helped me determine that couture sewing for others is not how I want to spend my sewing time. 

The dress is a work of art Molly! True, many of us learn what we do like by learning what we don't like! 

I know machine embroidery is one of your current specialties, when were you first "bitten" by the embroidery bug? 

In 2008, I bought my first embroidery machine. I was excited to learn all I could about this new machine and signed up for an embroidery convention immediately. I met Reen Wilcoxson at this event. When I think back, it may have been her first event setting up a booth. I still remember standing at the booth and just not wanting to leave. I was simply mesmerized by all the things she was doing with machine embroidery! That was the beginning of a close friendship with Reen.

​When and how did your passion for sewing/embroidery turn into a business?

​I started doing local craft shows over 20 years ago. Craft shows were a hobby at first and then became a small business. With the addition of embroidery machines, I am able to do so much more and now I've added customized items for sale. However, my free time is limited and sporadic. Currently, I'm using my experience and creative energy to focus on creating sewing patterns and digitizing embroidery designs for other enthusiasts to enjoy. I have an Etsy shop for all of my items and the apron pattern is also sold there.

You have some really unique items in your shop Molly! I visited recently and saw your digital cutting files, beautiful cut cork fabric panels,  lots of custom key tags, and many more beautiful things! 

I'm sure we have some creative sewing entrepreneurs listening in. What are some of the best ways you have found to get your custom items noticed? ​

​People like to see options. Samples are the best way to get an item noticed. My apron pattern is so versatile and a great way to convey that is to make many samples. I have made the apron for craft show vendors, teachers, basket weavers, and cooks. When I work with Reen at a show we have patterns available and samples to show.

I know you have two different options for purchasing this in your Etsy shop, either a digital download or a complete pattern package with all the necessary hardware included.  Sewing shops can carry the pattern as well and I know some stores have made great classes using your pattern. Below is a photo from the pattern package and a close up of the pockets.

​Yes, there was trial and error in getting it just right. Very much so! I made a list of all the attributes the apron would include. I drew pictures of the apron so as to visualize what it might look like in the end. Then, I cut fabric to approximate sizes and did the sewing. Then there was measuring and pattern piece making. I had to make it so that other people could re-create what I had done, with detailed instructions and photos. There were many versions that didn’t make the cut :)

If someone is making your apron for the first time what would you say are the most important things to think about before starting. ​

Read through the instructions. ONE step at a time! Start at the beginning and just concentrate on the task at hand. Join the Facebook Group and ask questions if you need to. Here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MollyMadeApronSewAlong/

That's exactly what I did when I made mine. I knew I wanted lots of embroidery so I used a large area of solid fabric. With all of your separate pieces there is a lot of opportunity for pattern play with mix and match fabrics.

I'd like to mention that there's a really cute half apron version too! Here's a montage of apron photos showing how other sewing enthusiasts used different fabric options.

These aprons are perfect for gifts too! Many of our fellow machine embroidery enthusiasts love making gifts for others. Do you have any favorite projects that you use over and over again for gift giving? 

I do love "gifting" personalized items! I feel that giving an item with a person’s name on it portrays the sentiment I am after. I want them to know I took the time to make them something really special. Ever since I learned about the cutwork feature on my PR1000e, I have been digitizing and gifting name key fobs. These are useful, personalized, and perfectly cut out with the special needles on this machine.

​Tell us about your personal sewing time and space. Do you have a room or a particular place that is dedicated to sewing? What are some of your favorite "sewing for fun" projects?

​I live for fun sewing! I like to sew with knit fabric on the serger, but have so much to learn. I like to sew items that will be useful, like bags, totes, zipper cases for organizing, & key fobs.

​I actually have a huge room dedicated to sewing. It is still a work in progress, but I love spending time in there. The room was originally a garage, made into a master bedroom, now transformed into a sewing room. The ceiling is very high and there are windows. Always room for improvement, I need more lighting, and the walls could maybe be painted a happier color. The good part is that all my supplies and equipment are contained in one room and I can close the door when I’m done! The photo shows one wall decoration and by the way the scissors are real . . . I got them at a garage sale :)

​What are some of your favorite hobbies or creative endeavors when you're not stitching?

Ahhh, I always have my fingers into something!!! ​Other hobbies include chalk painting furniture and wood items; cutting signs, vinyl, fabric, cork fabric, etc., with my digital cutting machine.
​
I also like weaving baskets, chair caning, and oh yes . . . raising chickens for their eggs. You asked for some photos so here goes!

Of course family means the world to me!  My husband and the rest of my family are very supportive of my creative endeavors :)

Thanks for sharing so much of yourself with us Molly!

​Do you have any parting words or a special sewing motto you'd like to share?

Make time for sewing. It’s time well spent!

Well said! It's been great fun talking to you! 

Below is the address for Molly's Etsy shop where you'll find the Artisan Apron pattern and more of her custom crafted items for sale. www.etsy.com/shop/MollyMadeEmb

​Got scraps??? Don't we all!! This SCRAP HAPPY JACKET is all about putting your scraps together for a chic patchwork jacket!

The article itself is packed with timely tips for embroidering on leftover chunks of denim fabric with ideas for putting the pieces together for a patchwork jacket with lots of wearability. But there's only so much space in allotted in every issue, so I'd like to share a few more tips and tricks that didn't make it into the magazine.

​Let me start by telling you more about the pattern I used. Truly, every great garment starts with a great pattern and there is a little history behind this jem of jacket pattern. 

Call it Serendipity (pun intended), I met Kay Whitt, designer of the featured jacket pattern during taping for the It's Sew Easy TV show a while back.  

Warm, friendly, and a wonderful sewing instructor, Kay and I found a lot in common. In particular we admitted we are both sticklers for detailed instructions. If you are a fan of independent pattern companies you may agree that they are not all as good at instruction writing as they are at designing. Kay and I found a commonality in our passion for providing  step-by-step instructions that guide the sewing enthusiast from start to finish without frustration from sketchy instructions.

When I had the idea in mind for a princess seamed jacket to use as the basis for this article I hopped on over to her website,  sewserendipity.com. Now you see the meaning of the pun :-). In a matter of minutes I downloaded her Dakota Duster PDF Pattern. 

Together with bits and pieces of blue scraps, and I do mean scraps, I had just enough to make patchwork for a jacket that would go with any shade of denim already in my closet. Using decorative stitches from the embroidery menu along with a feature I like to call the "build a border" function, I was able to dress up the denim pieces used for the front panel and create a new look for plain fabric.

Not wanting to stitch buttonholes through the embroidery I opted for loops made from strips of light weight denim cut on the bias.  Then I used an idea crafted during construction of my Warm and Wearable Fleece Wrap garment. The idea is simple, loops can be wrapped around the button to wear jacket open. 

Custom covered buttons are another detail that ties together the denim theme. CLICK HERE for a free Letsgosew tip sheet showing how to make neat, nice, fabric covered buttons.

Facing the front with the same pattern piece used for the patchwork piece makes a nice no-bulky finish for the front. Combine the extra tips here with all the info in the jacket article and you are on your way to a work of art you'll wear happily ever after! If you're not a regular subscriber to the magazine visit your local sewing dealer for a copy or order from www.dzgns.com.

​I'd love to hear about your personal adventures with denim! Feel free to leave your comments!